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Nzulezu (pronounced zu lay-zu) is in a remote part
of western Ghana, the infamous Village on Stilts. Paddling
ourselves through the tropical overgrowth and lily pads, we
first catch sight of this unstable-looking community from
our dug out canoe across the vast Lake Amansuri. The
journey to this unique village is half the experience. Nearly
a day by unreliable tro-tro (communal minibus) and overloaded
bus from the capital, Accra it is, however, well worth
it.
The road to Beyin, the boarding point for canoes to
Nzulezu, is dusty and potholed, but I found the simple mud
hut villages along the way picturesque. The driver stopped
on many occasions to drop and collect way more sweaty passengers
than fitted comfortably into the precarious mini-van, and
to buy some freshly caught fish from a couple of lone fisherman
which, on passing his house, he promptly stopped and took
inside.
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The tourist centre stands in beautiful tropical gardens,
amidst towering palms and sloped towards a golden sand beach.
Fishermen were pulling in their vast catch for the day, as
the sun beat down on the pale-faced obroni waiting for an
insight into the world of the water-bound Nzema people.
The walk to the jetty is across a ridge over the wetland.
A lone, elderly woman paddled her full-sized canoe at high
speed through the marshland, bringing supplies from the market.
Everyday the Nzema people of Nzulezu take this arduous trip
back and forth across the lake to their farmland, just north
of the shoreline, or to Beyin to trade. We found out just
how remarkable this lady was once we were inside our own,
heavy canoe and struggling to paddle the hour to the village.
The water is as black and still as an inkwell. It is also
as reflective as a mirror. When the narrow, croc-infested
swamp opens to the immense lake, you feel quite humbled by
nature, as the fragile canoe sways and dips in the water.
Upon reaching the village, however, a new sense of awe comes
over you. The children have an apparent complete lack on fear
of the water. Maybe not surprising since one legend tells
of the 'Naming Ceremony'. This is where the newborn baby is
dropped into the lake, and named after the first person to
dive in and bring him out. Hmm, it sounds quite brutal, and
we were assured it wasn't true, but it makes a good story!
What is truth, however, is watching a naked three-year-old
jump into a tethered canoe, and cast off on her own. Complete
with her full-length stick paddle, she was as at home as a
Western baby is in a sand box. I also spotted another small
toddler disappearing under the support beams of the village,
and climbing around as if he was on a playground-climbing
frame. The children in this village are the most incredible
aspect of the experience for me. They appeared so earthy and
capable, as African children are in comparison to pampered
Western youths.
The story of the foundation of the village goes that the Nzema
people asked their god where they should build the village,
and he led them to a spot on Lake Amansuri, so they obeyed
and built the village, calling it Nzulezu meaning 'built on
water'. A fire destroyed the original village, killing much
of the population, and it was relocated in its present spot,
further round the lake.
This trip was definitely a highlight of my trip to Ghana,
and I strongly recommend it, aside from the slight guilt you
feel, like you're turning these people's lives into a fishbowl
to be gawped at. Maybe the discomfort will be relieved by
the knowledge that by visiting, and in turn paying for the
trip, you are contributing to the eco-tourism project and
reinvesting into the local community.
Text and photography © Jenna Colbourne, 2005
Jenna Colbourne is the author of Pilot Guides' guide to West
Africa.
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Travel writers: Water babies in the Village on Stilts By
Jenna Colbourne
