Ethiopia: Background and Travel Essentials

Ethiopia is a land of diversity, a landscape of lush forests, coffee plantations, deep ravines, grassy plains, snow-capped mountains, waterfalls, rivers, and volcanic lakes, with people who have over 80 different cultural and linguistic ancestries, and in the cities that pit ancient against modern. The religious and anthropological history of this relatively small piece of land lays claim to the first human skeletal remains, and to being the birthplace of the people who would influence the development of Christianity and Islam. The modern inhabitants are friendly, intelligent, and trying to save the country from the economic oppression of a government that formerly prohibited free trade.

Famine looms over Ethiopia, not because of barren soil or lack of farming technique, but because the mass transportation necessary to convey food from productive areas to those less so is not available, nor is widespread technological communication. Ethiopia was only briefly occupied by the Italians from 1936-41, never was it colonised by a European country, a unique cultural advantage.

Mursi Tribes Women

Haile Selassie was emperor until 1974, inspiring the creation of the Rastafarian religion, as they believed him to be their saviour. Unfortunately he was assassinated and the oppressive government began its reign. Tourists were formerly prevented from visiting Ethiopia because of the Mengistu regime (until 1991) and the war over boundary lines with Eritrea (now independent from Ethiopia).

Ethiopian culture is uniquely fascinated with languages, religion, coffee, art and information. Its towns are bedecked with ancient churches and Mosques, the parks with animals found nowhere else in the world and the country with a civilisation, multifarious as no other.

Cash

Ethiopian currency is the birr.

1 birr = approx 9 U.S. dollars or Euros or £6 sterling.

For up to date currency information, check the Currency Converter.

The birr is divided into 100 cents and comes in coin divisions of 1,5, 10, 25, and 50. Bank notes come in divisions of 1,5, 10,50, and 100.

There is an airport tax of 6 birr on local travel and 20 birr on international travel. It is necessary to declare the amount of money you are taking into the country on arrival, keeping a record of your transactions along the trip, in order to be able to convert the birr back to your currency upon departure.

Although there is black market trading it is not advisable to use it; you're likely to be ripped off. Instead, the National Bank of Ethiopia provides bureau de change services, but with scepticism towards travellers checks, and a rejection of credit cards. Be prepared to carry cash and be careful.

Budget accommodation can be found for a few dollars ($2-3 per night), without hot water. A shower will cost a few birr more. Luxury hotels are around $50 - $60 per night. Buses from the airports can be expensive (up to $10) but are worth it to avoid the often long and gruelling trek.

People

The main ethnic groups of Ethiopia are the Ahmara and Tigray, originating from the northern plateaus and grasslands and the Oromo, from central and south Ethiopia. These make up about 70% of the population, which comprise in total around eighty different ethnicities. Ninety percent of the population are agrarian workers. Animism, Chistianity, and Islam have all been in Ethiopia for generations although Christianity and Islam share about 80% of the country's religious following. Ethiopians are friendly and generous. They are generally welcoming to foreigners as they are relatively unexposed to European colonization. Italy occupied Ethiopia between 1936-1941 leaving a legacy of a language and pasticcerias, but without any resentment.

Travel

Ethiopian Airlines have a good internal service to other major cities. Addis Ababa to Lalibela, Gondar, Bahar Dar, or Axum is an easy trip by plane between $50-150. It is necessary to reconfirm all onward flights after a stopover and to make sure of the departure time one day before the flight.
Despite the scenic advantages of a bus, it can offer a stiflingly hot and slow ride. Buy the ticket the day before to avoid the ticket touts that jack up the prices. Inside Addis Ababa, buses have unknown routes as the streets have no names but a personal cab can be hired for a mere 25 birr a day.
The Addis- Djibouti railway provides a reliable service in the north of the country, but at $11/7/3.50 for 1st/2nd/3rd class, it is much more expensive than the buses which have more interesting routes.

Food

Ethiopian stews (wat) come in the mild (alicha) or spicy (kai) variety and are scooped up with the traditional pancake (injera) made of the endemic teff flour. Common meat dishes are chicken (doro), lamb (beg), fish (assa), and fried meat (tibs). The more delicious vegetarian foods are mixed lentils and chickpeas (shuro), black lentils (missir), chickpeas (kik), or a mixed plate found in fasting times (ye som migib).

Kifto, raw minced meat, is a traditional dish best avoided if your system isn't used to the kinds of life that can be found in it (i.e. worms). The coffee is excellent and world class, and should be accompanied by the traditional ceremony to reap an intense Ethiopian experience. It is best to sterilize all water, because much of it is infected with bilharzias, or faeces. The sparkling bottled water (ambo) is safe. Fresh vegetables and fruits must be washed, as there is no pesticide control; despite the pesticide there is still a chance of picking up liver fluke in your salad.

Language

Amharic of semitic origin, is the official language, spoken by about 1/3 of the population. Oromo, Tigrina and Arabic are also widely spoken. English is the language of education, and can be heard in Addis Ababa, although many people throughout Ethiopia know enough to communicate.

Climate

Ethiopia has a cool region in the north on the high plateau and around Harar, a temperate region in the center plateaux and a hot region in the south (below 5000ft). In the highlands and around Addis Ababa the temperature remains between 80F (26C) and 45F (7C), although average temperatures are usually around 63F (17C). The temperature drops sharply in the late and afternoon, and the evening is cool. It rarely gets down to freezing, but the coldest times are in January and December and the rainy season (kremt),mid-June to mid-September. The dry season (bega) is from October to June with light rains (belg) often arriving from February to March. The rain falls heaviest in the south-west, 70 inches per year. The lowlands of the South East are the areas most affected by drought.

Dress

Addis Ababa is a modern city, with the inhabitants often dressed as westerners. Otherwise expect long draped cotton fabric with rich colors. During festivals, such as Timkat, the congregation wears white, thereby highlighting the priests purple and gold religious wear. It's not advisable for women to expose midriffs, knees or shoulders. Skirts or dresses are more appropriate than trousers for women. Men should not go topless and trousers are more appropriate than shorts. Not to worry though, the people aren't harsh on tourist faux pas. They'll just think you're silly.

Health

Bilharzias are in all water except for Lake Longano, so sterilize your supply. It is possible to contract Malaria and Yellow Fever in the lowlands. Ethiopia is also a high risk for HIV/AIDS. Yellow Fever immunizations are required as is Cholera if you are travelling from an infected area within 6 days of your arrival to Ethiopia. The U.N. recommends immunization against Typhoid, hepatitis A/B, tetanus, poliomyelitis, and meningitis. Foreigners working in Ethiopia often contract infectious hepatitis, so its recommended to take gamma globulin injections just before you arrive.

Visas

Visas are necessary for everyone except Kenyan nationals. Proof of sufficient funds or onward journey may be required. Visas are single entry and cost $40 or more if you plan on visiting Eritrea or Djibouti. Visa extensions are available at the immigration office in Addis Ababa (off Churchill Ave) and cost $20. Exit visas are required for stays over 30 days.
up to date Visa information

Another Place, Another Time

Ethiopians are eight years behind the Gregorian calendar; the Julian calendar has thirteen months in a year. Kelayleetu time, a different way of numbering the hours, starts at sunrise, 12 am noon would be six o'clock, and so on. Work this out in advance, or you could easily end up missing the only train of the day.

Meskrem (New Year): 11 September-10 October;
Tikemt: 11 October-9 November;
Hidar: 10 November-9 December;
Tahsas: 10 December-8 January;
Tir: 9 January-7 February;
Yekatit: 8 February-9 March;
Megabit: 10 March-8 April;
Miyazya: 9 April-8 May;
Ginbot: 9 May-7 June;
Sene: 8 June-7 July;
Hamle: 8 July-6 August;
Nahase: 7 August-5 September;
Paguemen: 6-10 September.
The Government's fiscal year runs from 1 Hamle (8 July) to 30 Sene (7 July).