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Ancient history
Eleven sacred stone monuments to the Christian God have been
standing in Northern Ethiopia since the 12th century when
they were cut from the earth under the auspices of King
Lalibela (1181-1221).
The local legend claims that Lalibela's brother Harbay could
not contain his jealousy of his mother, Queen Roha's, other
son. "Lalibela" means "the bee that recognizes
sovereignty"; the Queen named her baby after seeing a
swarm of bees around him, in the belief that animals reveal
divine auguries. Harbay poisoned Lalibela which sent him into
a three day "death" during which he visited the
first, second, and third heaven, receiving instructions from
God that he must return to Roha. God also slipped him the
architectural design plans for the magnificent churches that
still stand in the town of Lalibela today, carved from red
volcanic rock.
Another more plausible explanation for the rock hewn homage
is that Lalibela visited Jerusalem and returned to
Ethiopia with the idea of creating a new holy city. The churches
are carved out of the rock bed, cliff face, and mountainside,
interconnecting through numerous underground passages. A river,
aptly named the Jordan and also serving as a symbol
of Christ's baptism, divides the churches into two groups.
On one side of the river the churches of earthly Jerusalem
reside, and the other is the mystical land of heavenly Jerusalem.
Recent holy invasions
The legend says that this sacred complex was completed in
either 24 years, or 24 hours with the help of angels who worked
at night. In all probability it must have taken hundreds of
years to create such an immense series of interconnecting
structures, but those who still patronise the churches of
Lalibela for holy ceremonies are those who truly create the
city's hallowed character.
Beta Medahne Alem, in the shape of a Greek cross, measures
100 ft long, 75 ft wide and 35ft high. The roof is aligned
on ground level and is covered to prevent erosion. Inside
rests the Afro Ayigeba, a 2ft long ornately decorated
cross. This Coptic Cross, ascribed with healing powers,
is constantly guarded by a minimum of two men. In 1997 a priest
waited until one guard had gone to relieve himself and the
remaining one was asleep. Then he snuck in and stole the ancient
cross to bring it to the bedside of an ailing young girl.
Her father plied the priest with liquor and in the morning
the priest awoke outside without the cross. The father and
brother of the girl claimed to have buried it in the back
yard, but it was actually sold it for 1,000 birr ($115 U.S.
dollars) to an antique dealer in the nearby town of Desi,
who sold it on to an antique dealer in Addis Ababa, who then
sold the priceless Ethiopian treasure to a Belgian collector
for 25,000 U.S. dollars. It was returned in 2001 to its sacramental
location in Lalibela where it continues to attract pilgrims
from remote hamlets all across the country.
Carved out architecture
Four of these churches are completely free standing: These
are Beta Medhane Alem (the House of the Saviour of
the World), Beta Maryam (the House of Mary), Beta
Amanuel (the House of Emanuel) and Beta Ghiorghis
(the House of St George). A courtyard is dug around their
walls and only the smooth floor, worn from years of devout
pilgrims walking in to prostrate themselves, touches the ground.
Bet Maryam contains a square pool in which childless
women dip themselves and pray to conceive. Beta Golgotha,
the House of Golgotha, stands behind a large, hollow, rectangular
block of stone, the Tomb of Adam. Beta Ammanuel, the
house of Emmanuel, is reached through a tunnel opening into
a courtyard where the delicately carved structure is situated.
Beta Abba Libanos was built by Maskal, King Lalibela's
Queen in his memoriam; all four of its walls stand free, but
it is further attached to the earth by the roof that melts
into the towering cliff.
What to see and do
The most popular services are at dawn, before the day's heat
and fieldwork for the residents. Inside the twisting tunnels
lined with Christian relics and humble pilgrims, the sounds
of the service echoes off the stone. Drums, tambourines, and
chants intended to lift the soul high above this earth and
life, echo deep within the hardened stone earth moulded by
human hands.
The most exciting time to visit Lalibela is during one of
the many colourful religious festivals that bring out the
town and the priests in full costumes of gold lamé,
purple, red, and blue. Timkat, the celebration of the
Epiphany (the baptism of Christ), is celebrated by carrying
a replica of the Ark of the Covenant through town in
a grand procession.
Getting there
Ethiopian Airlines operates relatively cheap daily
flights to Lalibela from Addis Ababa, for around US$100 one
way. This is by far the most comfortable way to travel. Flights
can be booked in advance through any of the Ethiopian Airlines
offices in Addis Ababa or worldwide.
From the airport at Kombolcha you can take a bus into
Lalibela. Alternatively you can travel the whole way from
Addis Ababa to Lalibela by bus for about US$3, but it's a
bumpy, ten-hour journey.
Where to stay
There are hotels in Lalibela to suit all budgets. Top end
hotels such as the Lal Hotel (Tel: +251 3 360008) are
comfortable but expensive. There are a number of reasonable
government-run hotels such as Hotel Roha Lalibela (+251
3 360009), which are of a reasonable standard, but still pricey
compared with the budget options. The Asheton Hotel (+251
3 360030) is basic but clean and very popular with travellers.
Rooms at the Asheton cost between US$4 and US$8 a night depending
on the facilities. Note that there are no street names in
Ethiopia. If you call in advance the hotel will be able to
give you directions.
Other expenses
You can eat very cheaply if you opt for local restaurants
where you can get a good, substantial meal for under US$6.
At the hotels, you will pay significantly more, but it is
still quite reasonable. Lalibela is famous for its honey
wine, known locally as tej, so make sure you try some
while you¹re in town.
Entrance to the churches costs US$2.50 or you can buy a general
ticket for US$12, which allows you to enter all the churches
in town as often as you like.
Once you're there
Amharic is the most widely spoken language in Ethiopia,
especially in the highlands. It's a difficult language but
it¹s worth learning a few words as not many people speak
English. The other main languages are Tigrinya (spoken
in Tigray and Eritrea) and Oromigna (spoken mainly
in the south).
There are fleas in Lalibela, and although you shouldn't suffer
too much if you stay in one of the larger hotels, you are
likely to encounter problems when visiting the churches. Sting
relief spray or lotion is extremely useful.
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