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The Masai Mara, or the 'Mara' as it is more commonly
known, is the most popular game reserve in Kenya and one of
the most famous in Africa which has been immortalised in books
and films such as Out of Africa. The reason is not
surprising - the Serengeti here is at its most dramatic
and plays host to a plethora of wildlife. In July and August
the great migrations take place across the Serengeti plains
and create one of the most spectacular shows on earth. This
is a natural phenomenon that is not to be missed, both a humbling
and unique experience as you feel extremely insignificant
amongst the vast space and millions of wildebeest.
History
The Masai Mara area has suffered from its fair share of controversy.
The reserve was created in the 1960's and set aside as a game
reserve. However this conflicted with the Maasai, one
of Kenya's main tribes, as it caused a huge displacement of
their villages and livestock. The Mara was originally one
of the grazing areas for Maasai livestock and manyatta.
A manyatta is a livestock camp that Maasai boys build after
circumcision and spend a few years in to complete their transition
to manhood. The move by communal government to set aside this
land reduced and destroyed the Maasai concepts of communal
land. Presently there are ongoing conflicts about land ownership
and the effects of tourism on the traditional Maasai practices.
Wild life
The main reason the park is so popular is because of the variety,
number and accessibility of wildlife. The Mara is one of the
few places in Kenya where you can see large cats and
even observe prides of lion hunting, especially around
Musiara swamps. Even the elusive cheetah and
leopard seem to be a little more willing to show themselves.
The park is also teeming with buffalos, zebra and various
antelopes. Impala, wildebeest, Grant and Thomson
gazelle, Kirk's dik - dik and Topi roam in groups.
One of the main differences in Kenya from Southern parts of
Africa is that it is far harder to spot Black Rhino
and they are at a greater risk from poaching by ivory traders.
The common Masai giraffe mingle with baboons, families
of elephants, warthogs and hyena in areas with
more trees. It is hardly surprising then that tourists flock
to the park in high season.
Travel
If you are travelling to the park, it is better to have your
transport. It is possible to get to the park through the nearest
town of Narok by matatu bus or hitching to either
the Sekenani (about 50 miles) or Talek (about
65 miles) gates. However there is no public transport inside
the park so you will have to rely on hitching. This is fine
in the high season but not advised in the low season as even
during peak periods it can take days. Your best bet is to
hire a four wheel drive vehicle, then you will find some of
the tracks easier to manoeuvre.
Camping
There are very few campsites in the park itself. The Olooaimutiek
Campsite costs 200 ksh ($2.50 US) and provides an askari
(guard), which is useful if you want to leave your belongings.
It is about halfway between Olooaimutiek Gate and the
Mara Sopa Lodge. There are a number of campsites outside
the park near the Mara River outside the Oloololo
Gate. These are real budget places and have no security
meaning you are easily susceptible to both human and baboon
theft.
Be prepared
It is best to stock up on drinking water and petrol in either
Narok or Nairobi. The Mara Sarova Lodge
near Sekenani Gate and Mara Serena Lodge near
the Musiara and Oloololo Gates both sell petrol
but at inflated prices. The lodges themselves are worth looking
at or stopping for a drink as these are two of the finest
examples of luxury accommodation in the park. Many people
suggest off road driving, however this has been causing damage
and erosion to areas of the reserve so visitors are urged
not to. It is also important to remember that if you are planning
your own safari around the Masai Mara that many roads become
impassable during the rainy season. It is important to plan
your route carefully and avoid any river crossings.
Other things to see and do
There are a few other attractions in the park: the Maasai
village near Oloolaimutiek gate gets pretty crowded and
can be a fairly depressing spectacle. A slightly less commercial
alternative is to take a walk with a Maasai moran (warrior)
around the periphery of the reserve to observe wildlife and
visit a village. Talek is a good place to make enquiries
about this and remember on top of guide fees there may be
a charge for crossing Maasai land.
At the other end of the scale are balloon safaris,
which are a fantastic experience. These start at around US$
380 and can be arranged through the Fig Tree Camp on
the Talek gate side. Viewing game and the migrations from
above is a breathtaking experience that is a worthwhile luxury.
It is also worth remembering that there are a number of airstrips
in the Masai Mara, with flights leaving twice daily from
Nairobi. It is worth considering this option if you have
booked accommodation in advance as it offers spectacular views.
Prices start at US$ 100 for a one-way ticket.
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