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Warning: the Ivory Coast can be a very dangerous country.
Check with your nearest embassy or consulate before attempting
to plan a trip here
The French-speaking Ivory Coast was once one of the richest
countries in Africa due to its valuable ivory exports. Unfortunately,
droughts in the region and economic recessions have hit, causing
the country to experience hardships. This in turn led to an
increase in crime, making the commercial capital Abidjan,
in particular, a dangerous place to be. Things are improving,
however, and the country has a fantastic culture and history
to explore. It is advisable to seek up-to-date information
before planning travel to the area.
It is still possible to buy ivory legally in Cocody
Market, but bear in mind, should you feel the need, you
are unlikely to get it through customs as it's illegal to
export it and there are major ethical associated with the
slaughter of elephants and endangered rhino.
There are also a few game parks, although most have
been closed or are inaccessible without your own four-wheel
drive vehicle. You can hire guides at the parks relatively
cheap to give you the tour but accommodation is not currently
available on site.
In the north of the country lies the Yacouba region,
home of the Dan tribes. This area is famous for it's
dancing and mask traditions. Masked performers, whom have
undergone years of training, perform the dances on stilts.
They are considered very important consultants, and all major
decisions are approved with them first.
Climate
Like other areas in West Africa, Cote d'Ivoire experiences
temperatures averaging between 80F (27C) and 90F (30C), with
the dry season running from December to February. May to October
sees the heaviest rainfall, particularly in the south of the
country.
Dress
Especially in the Northern regions of the country, it is
important you cover your legs, this is offensive to the locals,
yet surprisingly you can go topless if this is your preference,
since breasts are not an issue here.
Food
A traditional Ivoirian speciality is foutou,
a staple dish of pounded cassava and plantain, served up with
stewed grasscutters, a giant jungle rat! Other dishes
you are likely to come across and you should definitely make
an effort to try include kedjenou, a chicken and vegetable
stew, and attieke, a grated couscous-like dish. Main exports
of the Ivory Coast include coffee and cocoa.
Language
The official language in Cote d'Ivoire is French;
a basic knowledge of this is helpful in getting around. Other
major African languages spoken throughout the region include
Baoule and Agni in the south, and Mande
and Senoufo in the north. Dioula is the commonly
spoken dialect for commerce. Attempt to speak in their language
as much as possible, and you will generally get a positive
response.
Religion and Population
Cote d'Ivoire has a population of thirteen million, with
only 16% being Christians and 23% Muslims. The majority of
Cote d'Ivoire practice traditional African religions. The
people here are slightly more reserved than other parts of
West Africa, but welcoming all the same. The largest tribes
consist of the Baoule, Agni, Bete, Malinka, Dan and
Senoufo, and there are over 60 different tribes in existence
in Cote d'Ivoire alone. Expatriates from neighbouring West
African countries and many French and Lebanese nationals working
in the area have also settled here.
Cash
The official currency in Cote d'Ivoire is the West African
CFA franc. Be prepared to get asked for proof of purchase
of your travellers' cheques when exchanging, since most banks
appear to require this.
Budget accommodation is rarely a problem to find and is relatively
cheap; expect to pay between US$6 to US$12 for low to mid-range
rooms.
Travel
For an authentic Cote d'Ivoirian experience, take a bush
taxi between towns, but do be prepared to travel as the
locals do, often more than one to a seat, sometimes sharing
with wildfowl. It is unadvisable to travel at night, especially
in Abidjan, due to the high crime rate, so always take
taxis home. The Treichville area is particularly notorious
for being a crime black spot.
Rural roads in Cote d'Ivoire are pretty poor, and should
be avoided, especially at night where potholes and vehicles
without lights are a major hazard. Renting a car is generally
not worth the hassle, since it is expensive and instances
of ambushing and banditry on the country roads are reported.
The public transport is fair, and an interesting challenge
for the intrepid traveller, so you'd be better off giving
it a go.
If you are travelling by air, be aware that they often overbook
seats on already limited schedules, so reconfirming should
be a priority. Delays are also common on all forms of transport,
and timetables are generally at the driver's convenience so
be prepared with food and water for unexpected extended stopovers.
Cote d'Ivoire is serviced by its national airline, Air
Ivoire, alongside other European and West African air
carriers. It is also possible to take buses and trains over-ground
from neighbouring Burkina Faso, Ghana, Liberia, Guinea, and
Mali.
Visas
Visas are required for stays up to 90 days along with a valid
passport, if you wish to stay on longer than this period,
you will need to obtain a visa de sejour or carte de sejour
within 90 days of your arrival at the police headquarters
in Abidjan. US citizens and nationals of the Economic Community
of West African States (ECOWAS) do not need visas.
Health
It is mandatory for all visitors to Cote d'Ivoire to present
a Yellow Fever certificate on entrance, or risk being
refused entrance or even subjected to vaccination at the border.
Malaria is rife in this region of Africa, so anti-malarial
precautions should be arranged before travel. Use of insect
repellent and mosquito nets also greatly reduces the risk
of contracting the disease.
Ivory Coast highlights
Beaches
Poli-Plage in Sassandra is a great base, it's
quite remote though, so don't forget to book a firm pick-up
time and remember all your beach essentials, namely plenty
of water in this heat. And don't forget to leave the beach
as you found it, i.e. sans litter! This is a picturesque fishing
village, attracting tourists in particular for its delicious,
cheap seafood. Another highlight, if you have the time is
a trip upriver in a pirogue, bargain to get a good price and
enjoy the wildlife.
Bathers are reminded as well to watch for ocean currents,
swimmers should seek local advice for conditions as many drownings
occur each year in treacherous coastal waters. The unspoilt
beaches are, however, stunning and definitely worth a look.
Abidjan
For a taste of commercialism in Africa head down to the cultural
capital Abidjan. Dubbed as the New York of West Africa, it
has all the highlights of a bustling metropolis however be
warned, the rich/poor contrasts are stark, and remain aware
in the notorious crime black spots. That aside, there is plenty
to see and do here and the city offers an exciting high-rise
oasis in this area of Africa.
Grand-Bassam
The former colonial capital until a yellow-fever epidemic
in the late nineteenth century forced the French settlers
to relocate. The area is lush, settled amongst coconut palms
and a mere stones throw from idyllic secluded beaches, this
is beautiful spot for a detour. When lying on the beach gets
too much, take a stroll through the old town, taking in the
splendour of the colonial architecture, museums and interesting
markets.
Man
A highlight of this country is the natural environment of
the Dan people. Beautiful forested scenery lends this region
its relaxing charm. Whilst here, don't miss the local stilt
dances, with masked locals performing traditional rituals.
There are hiking trails and stunning waterfalls, so take time
to see all this incredible area has to offer.
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