|
Where it's at
The paradise islands of Cape Verde boast miles of sandy
beaches, a tropical climate and friendly locals. Touted as
a package destination for the more well-to-do traveller, if
you venture out of the bigger resorts and experience a whole
new world of culture and harmony to immerse yourself in.
Located about 300 miles off the coast of West Africa, with
ideal conditions for water sports, it attracts enthusiasts
from around the world, the optimum months to visit being October
to June.
The islands themselves are notably barren, but captivating
all the same. There are ten islands in the archipelago, eight
of which are of volcanic origin, and one that is uninhabited.
The beauty of these islands serves as a honey trap for wanderlust
travellers and tourists alike, many whom vow to return.
Unlike some of its mainland African neighbours, the Cape
Verde archipelago displays political and social stability.
There is a cosmopolitan ethnic mix in the islands, with European
and African ancestry contributing to the gene pool and culture
of the people.
Climate
With a milder climate than many of its latitudinal neighbours,
Cape Verde enjoys a year round summer. The rains fall, if
unpredictably between August and October, with the warm Saharan
winds blowing in during January and February. You can expect
fairly standard temperatures of around 75F (25C).
The Islands
Sal
The most developed of the islands, Sal hosts the international
airport, and a wide range of hotels to choose from. The gorgeous
stretches of palm-lined beaches have attracted a range of
visitors. The main town here, Santa Maria, is a centre
for tourism and water sports in the crystal waters and sandy
coves. The entertainment found here is typical of the lively
Capverdian culture, bars and restaurants playing local music.
Espargos is the administrative centre, located close to the
airport and offers plenty of shops, bars and restaurants to
keep you amused.
Sal is named after the salt mines that once operated here,
and the island is the flattest in the archipelago. Tours of
the island are available taking in the Pedra de Lume salt
pond, the port of Palmeira the volcano crater and the natural
pool at Buracona. Sea excursions can be taken by boat around
the coast, stopping at various ports along the way. Alternatively
you can take day trips to other islands by catamaran.
The rapid expansion of the tourism on the island is evident
in the many hotels and facilities springing up; it is primarily
a beach resort due to its rather monotonous scenery. Accommodation
is not a problem here, and you can even hire a beach buggy
and taxis are available from the airport.
Santiago
Considered the most African of all the islands, Santiago
is rich in culture, evident during its many festivals and
local music. It is also the largest island in Cape Verde and
the most densely populated. The scenery here remains stunning
and natural, testament to its ancient status as the first
Cape Verde island to be populated by humans. In contrast to
Sal, the interior is mountainous, the highest peak being
Pico d'Antonia at 5000 ft. The beaches are sandy but smaller
than on some other islands, but the landscapes are fabulous
nonetheless, for the colourful flora and picturesque villages.
The capital Praia enjoys a lively entertainment scene.
The stunningly natural town of Tarrafal on a hill,
overlooking a lush valley opening out into the palm-lined
beaches and blue waters.
About ten miles from the old city of Praia, Cidade Velha
was a port for the trading of slaves and goods between
the European empires. The old fortress overlooks narrow, cobbled
streets, giving the city a nostalgic air of its former glory
during colonial times. This is an interesting place to wander
round, taking the old Cathedral and St Filipe Fortress.
The first university in Cape Verde was established here in
Praia. There is also a museum of marine archaeology, which
houses treasure recovered from various wrecks that sunk around
the islands.
You can rent a jeep to travel across the mountain ranges
to Vila do Tarrafal, stopping at Assomada en route, where
you can find a colourful African market. The return trip along
the coastal roads affords stunning views.
Boavista
Dubbed 'the sand dune isle' for it's distinctly desert-like
appearance, Boavista experiences the hot, dry winds blowing
off the Sahara. An ideal location for sailing, diving, surfing,
fishing, and kayaking, Boavista also boasts one of the best
beaches to be found on Cape Verde, Curralinho, it is
also the largest. The quaint port at Sal Rei is the
Boavista's capital, and here you'll find the limited accommodation
the island offers. Boavista is still very much developing,
and you will need to book rooms in advance.
If you have your own transport, you can reach many of the
islands incredible highlights, and some of the more remote
beaches. There is a craft centre just inland from Chave
beach, where you find sites of production of ceramics.
Walking tours across the sand dunes are popular, as are the
extensive selection of water sports.
Sao Vicente
As one of the volcanic isles, land erosion has caused the
coastline to shrink. Mindelo is the capital and a post-colonial
port. You can see the influences left behind by its former
British rulers, in the cemetery and coaling station. Mindelo
is also a site for intellectual and artistic communities and
has a lively nightlife. Visit around Ash Wednesday,
and you should catch the islands carnival, Cape Verde's liveliest.
Another traditional festival held on Sao Vicente during August
is Baia das Gratas, an international music event lasting three
days and three nights. There is also a great beach here that
is the islands safest. If windsurfing is your thing, you'd
be mad to miss Sao Pedro beach, a long stretch that
enables fast sailing. The cultural centre for Cape Verde,
in terms of music and its cosmopolitan vibe, many of the big
names in Cape Verdian music originated from Sao Vicente.
Fogo
Fogo developed from a volcano, the summit reaches 10,000ft,
and the climate is unsurprisingly hot all year round. There
is great contrast here between the arid spots in the south
and the lush, green northern region. The capital is Sao
Filipe, built on a cliff, and like Sao Vicente, still
very much reflects its colonial past, especially in the architecture.
The sand on the island is black, due to the volcanic nature
of the rock, and you can bathe in the natural pool at Salina
de Sao Jorge. The village of Chas das Caldeiras is
actually inside the crater of the volcano, well worth the
three-hour journey from Sao Filipe. It is possible to arrange
to stay with a family at the base, or alternatively at the
Pousada Pedra Brabu, near Chas das Caldeiras. You can
hire a guide and the ascent takes about five hours, the descent
about two, if you feeling fit, give it a go, but it's not
recommended for those in less than tiptop condition. If you've
exerted yourself enough at other activities, you can always
ride to the volcano on a horse, riding equipment is available
to rent.
Maio
The sand here is white and the beaches, like the rest of
the island, idyllic. Another extremely flat island, it is
so quiet it has almost been forgotten. The vast, palm-fringed
beaches are all but deserted and you can bask in its unspoilt
loveliness. Even the turtles have recognised this haven, and
many have been earmarked to lay their eggs. You'll be spoilt
for choice where to lay and simply absorb the tranquillity.
If you could ever get bored of this, head to the capital,
Vila do Maio. Only a small town but there is a traditional
church. The next town along, about three miles down, is Morro
where there isn't much to do but enjoy the peace
and breathtaking scenery.
You'd benefit by hiring a vehicle to navigate Maio, accessing
its many beaches and simple villages. The locals here favour
a quiet life, yet are invariably friendly, and with a population
of only 6,000, and scenery so stunning, you can understand
the unhurried pace.
Santa Antao
Considered by many to have the most spectacular of all the
Cape Verdian landscapes, Santa Antao consists of a mountain
range exceeding 5000ft which divides the island in two. Take
a ferry from Sao Vicente, taking about one hour into Porto
Novo. Visit the towns of Ribeira Grande,
many visitors base for further explorations, and Ponto
do Sol, the islands administrative capital. The colonial
architecture is prevalent here and the islands airport is
located here. Favoured especially by walkers, the island has
a strangely diverse local sub climate, ranging from the rugged
coast to the fertile forests in the interior. Near the township
of Janela is a rock with inscriptions dating back to the fifteenth
century. Another important thing to try while in the Cape
Verde archipelago is its famous local rum, grogue.
Made from sugar cane, it has quite a kick!
Getting there
Cape Verde's airline, TACV operates international
flights from Paris, Amsterdam, Lisbon and New York to the
airport on Sal, and Dakar to Santiago. Other European departures
are available depending on the season. The Portuguese airline,
TAP operates via Lisbon, but you can get a regular service
originating in the UK.
If a bit of island hopping appeals to you, internal air passes
are available if you have arrived with the national carrier,
and can save you money if you know your route in advance.
Coupons are valid for up to 22 days, and range from $200 for
2, to $500 for 10, obviously the more coupons you buy, the
cheaper each flight works out as.
For travel between the islands, you may wish to take the
rather more romantic route across the water. Regular ferry
services operate between the major ports, Mindelo, Sao Vicente
and Santa Antao. It is advisable to check when these depart,
however, as they primarily run for cargo purposes, particularly
the routes connecting Santiago, Fogo and Boavista.
The typical local transport is the aluguer, usually a mini-bus
or truck, used by both locals and visitors to traverse the
islands. Cars are also available for hire, but book in advance
wherever possible, and take extra caution on the roads as
conditions vary greatly.
Activities
One of the most popular activities on Cape Verde has got
to be trekking, with a wide range of locations and
levels of difficulty, combining spectacular views and diverse
flora and fauna, especially on Santa Antao, where the green
valleys and mountainous peaks provide a magnificent landscape
for the intrepid explorer. All islands offer guides to take
you through the best routes, including, possibly the finest
for stunning scenery, the summit of Pico de Fogo, a
fantastic volcanic cone, one of the best in the world.
The bird watching on the islands is another popular
pastime, as the variety of bird species is legendary, such
as the rare, nocturnal ngon-ngon, recently placed on the endangered
species list, you can arrange a special tour to take in these
fabulous birds, however be prepared for a physically demanding
journey up to the crater of Pico de Fogo. The climb is, however,
well worth it for the stunning views and birds.
Sal is regarded as the surfers' paradise, with constant
breezes blowing from the north making the seas of the island
perfect for the champions to train. The Trilogy Windsurfing
Competition is held in Punta Preta, renowned as
one of the best in the world, get down here for more advanced
conditions, however the island has five other locations for
those of varying standards, as on Boavista, Santiago, Sao
Nicolau and Maio.
Diving is also taking off in Cape Verde, where impressive
submerged caves, rock formations and canyons are home to a
variety of eels, lobsters and fish species. You may get to
experience the dolphins residing in these clear waters, making
conditions ideal for discovering the wealth in marine life
blessing the archipelago. Shipwrecks are also abundant around
the islands, and are fascinating to explore, local dive schools
are located in Santa Maria on Sal and Mindelo on Sao Vicente.
You can pre-book instruction and equipment.
Santa Maria is also home to one of the worlds best windsurfing
sites; the centre is located on the beach. These are ideal
for those with windsurfing experience, as the winds and open
seas can be dangerous for less experienced sailors; instruction
is available to top up your skills. Head off to Boavista or
Sao Vicente for beginner friendly centres and equipment available
to hire. If you have your own equipment to bring with you,
check with the airline for carriage requirements.
Different fishing activities are available, and due
to the diverse nature of fish species, it is also a popular
pastime. You'll find established centres can be found on Sal,
Sao Nicolao and Sao Vicente. Fishing clubs from island bases
operate trips of varying duration and styles, however hiring
of equipment is limited.
Traveller's Tips
Visitors to the Cape Verde islands require a passport
valid for six months from scheduled departure and a visa is
required by all. There is no consulate in the UK, so alternative
arrangements must be organised for travellers intending to
visit, either through specialized agents or try the Cape Verde
consulate in the Netherlands:
Mathenesserlaan 32b
Rotterdam, 3021 HX
The Netherlands
Tel: +31 10477 8977
Fax: +31 10477 4553
Insurance, as always is highly recommended, travellers
wishing to take part in activities such as water sports and
trekking should check any policies cover for these activities.
Tourism is important for the Cape Verde economy, and the
islands are rapidly developing to cater for the influx in
visitors in terms of accommodation and facilities. The transportation
system, along with other public and welfare services is undergoing
development.
|
