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Where it's at
The Hakka are usually found in the less habitable regions
of China and South-East Asia, as with most tribes who have
emigrated away from their homelands. Today there are tens
of millions of Hakka in the Southern Chinese provinces of
Guangdong, Jiangxi, and Fujian. In the last
century the have also migrated to Europe, the Americas, and
Africa.
History of the Hakka
The majority of the population of China is derived from the
Han people. The Hakka are a unique ethnic sub-group
of the Han. Their ancestral history is neither straightforward
or clear, but it is thought that they were originally from
northern China, but they were forced to leave during the fall
of the Southern Song dynasty in the 1270s. The name Hakka
is a Cantonese pronunciation of the Mandarin word Ko Chia
("guest people"), Around seven percent of Chinese
align their roots to the Hakka. Despite their numbers, the
Hakka never became fully assimilated into the native southern
population. They have well-preserved traditional beliefs and
cultures and are thought to be of royal blood. If so, their
practices are reflective of the cultural practices of the
Chinese nation 20 centuries ago, although the culture has
not been kept pure as they have inter-married with other ethnic
groups and absorbed their cultures. They are a very resilient
and hardy group of people, for example, the most northerly
restaurant in the world is supposedly a Chinese restaurant
run by a Hakka.
Beliefs and customs
It is probable that the language, customs, and traditions
of the Hakka are the oldest in China. Experts find it difficult
to say whether spoken Hakka is a different language or merely
different dialect to the Mandarin and Cantonese spoken in
China today. It is almost certainly a very old form of Chinese
that can be seen in ancient Chinese poetry, which has a rule
of rhyme. When poems dating between 770 b.c. and 1466 a.d.
are read in Mandarin they do not rhyme, however, if read in
Hakka they do. It is not only their language that they have
fought to preserve over the last two millennia but also their
beliefs and customs.
Their dress is frugal, conservative, and plain and is not
adorned with designs as reflects their work on the land. Their
folk songs, said to be sung in nine accents and eighteen melodies,
are very complex. They also sing mountains songs. Usually
impromptu, they are a form of sung conversations to describe
their surroundings or as a dialogue in the fields and hills.
They are often accompanied by sounds such as the chopping
of trees or boat sculling.
The Hakka still traditionally make paper umbrellas by hand,
which are popular as tourist gifts. These are made from Meinong
oil paper and bamboo and then hand painted. Only one or two
per craftsman can be produced in a day.
Hakka Houses
Their architecture falls into three categories and is probably
representative of the Hakka's social status over time. Initially,
when they first moved, South Phoenix houses were built.
These were in the style of the Imperial Court, which
at this time meant they had the favor of the Emperor. These
were elaborately designed but defensive constructions to protect
the many families each one housed. As the Hakka fell out of
favor with the court and the locals began to attack them,
the round house became the design of preference. Later,
these became more open Piang Fongs, which signaled
a lower social status.
Today the Hakka inhabit both round houses and Piang Fongs.
The area where Fujian, Jiangxi and Guangdong Provinces
meet is littered with tulou. Literally meaning 'mud house',
these unusual pieces of architecture are the work of the Hakka
people. Each one will usually house around 20 families with
about 100 people in total. The houses are built around a main
courtyard to allow in light and air, and to house livestock.
They have wells and complex drainage systems so they can be
completely self-sufficient for long periods of time. The walls
are about a meter thick and the doors are bolted. The ground
floor has slits for rifles, the second floor was for storing
grains or rice, and the third and fourth floors are inhabited.
They are effectively fortified villages.
Visiting the Hakka
Nowadays, tulou inhabitants are far more friendly, and there
are hundreds of tulou that can be visited. Especially worth
the effort are the roundhouses in the village of Chu Xi
near the town of Xiyang in Fujian Province.
Having only opened its doors to tourists in 2004, Chu Xi has
the combined advantages of being un-spoilt and welcoming to
foreigners at the same time. For a fee of around $7 USD, access
is granted to a village of 2,000 where everybody shares the
surname Su. There is a viewing platform with an excellent
overview of the village's three main roundhouses and impressive
square-houses. The main roundhouse has been converted into
a museum with an interesting collection of artifacts from
Hakka homes. There is even a section dedicated to brothels!
Elsewhere, Hakka roundhouse inhabitants are happy to meet
foreigners who wander in to their courtyards. They can show
you where they live and also where they work in the nearby
fields. You may be able to work in the paddy fields for the
Hakka in exchange for board and lodging.
To get to Xiyang, you'll need to hire a car from Yongding
or Longyan (roughly $50 USD per day with a driver),
or take a local bus. Yongding is off the beaten track, to
get there you have to get a train or bus to Longyan or Kanshi
then take a bus on to Yongding. |
