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The Dances of Hahoe Village
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Apart from a few choice modern appliances, precious little
has changed over the years in Hahoe villagers way of life
so if you want to experience a traditional festival or ancient
culture, this is the ideal place to go. Hahoe's dance tradition
is not just for the sake of the tourists; Korea has a very
respectful and interactive relationship with its arts and
crafts traditions and just because it is a modernised country
does not mean to say that the more rural villages have succumbed
to becoming a rural pastiche as is often the case in the West.
At least in the case of Hahoe, what you see here is what you
get - this is a genuine village with roots going back 600
years.
Dances
There are about 120 traditional houses and the villagers still
practise a number of rituals and activities as part of their
day-to-day life. Among these include folk dances that are
practised every weekend, including the drum dances (mugo
- a hectic, lively court dance where the participants wear
drums around their necks), mask dances (talchum),
monk dances (seungmu) and spirit-cleansing
dances (salpuri).
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A traditional talchum mask for dance
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Hahoe is also home to one of South Korea's most entertaining
dances, the Byelosingut Talnori. Its role is to mock
and satirise the establishment and accompanying the dance
are the sounds of nong-ak, a traditional farmer's musical
percussion quartet. As well as observing the dancing locals
often take part in the old game of Nul Dwee Gee - a
see-saw game that was once used by women secluded in aristocratic
homes to catch a glimpse of the world outside the confines
of their walls.
Andong mask festival
However, it is the masked dances for with Hahoe is most famous,
and the Andong International Mask Festival has been
held in Hahoe annually in late September since 1997. The mask
dance has been designated as a national treasure, and the
drama-dance include some robust audience participation. There
is also a museum in the village dedicated to the art.
Whilst a lot of this might seem to be put on just for the
tourists, don't judge it all with western eyes. The events
are seen by many tourists from both Korea and the West, but
they are still an integral part of Korean culture.
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By Iain Overton
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