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Tribal Gathering at the Nadaam Festival
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The Nadaam Festival is Mongolia's one and only big
event, occurring every year, usually between the 11th and
13th of July. It is a national festival, with celebrations
in almost all major towns, though the most impressive celebrations
are in Ulaan Baatar each year.
History
The festival has been celebrated for the last 200 years; it
was previously associated with religious ceremonies, related
to the worshipping of spirits of the mountains, rivers and
other natural beauties. In more recent years it has also become
a celebration of the 1921 Revolution, the declaration of which
give the festival its July dates.
Be prepared
Nadaam attracts people from hundreds of miles away, all across
country, and although it can be easy to get tickets as many
are sold by touts outside, transport and accommodation should
be booked in advance, unless you're planning to arrive on
horseback and set up your own ger, as the Mongolians do!
What happens at the festival?
All the major events of the festival occur on the first two
days, starting with the opening ceremony early on the morning
of the first day, which is preceded by the flags of Genghis
Khan being brought into the main square of Ulaan Baatar
by men on horse back. The ceremony itself involves music,
and a variety of performances and speeches.
The main elements of the festival are the tests of courage,
strength and daring through the three traditional 'manly'
sports of wrestling, archery and horse racing.
These activities are supplemented by the presentation of traditional
foods and folk dancing, accompanied by cymbals, horns and
drums.
The wrestling contest can involve up to five hundred
men (women are forbidden to enter), and is arranged into a
knock out competition. Performers wear a traditional costume
of knee-boots with upturned toes, tight pants and a silk vest
that covers the shoulder and arms, but not the chest. The
reasoning behind this bizarre upper body attire is to ensure
all contestants are male, after in one contest many years
ago, a woman competed in disguise and became champion, much
to the embarrassment of the men competing! Before beginning,
contestants perform a special eagle dance, which is
repeated by the winner at the end, while the loser passes
under their 'wing' as a sign of submission. The basic action
of the contest is similar to that of Sumo wrestling, where
the competitors just grab at one another, and attempt to topple
their opponent. The loser is the first to touch the ground
with anything more than soles of their feet. Winners are honoured
with ancient titles, including 'falcon' and 'lion', up to
the highest honour of 'Titan', and the champion becomes a
national celebrity until knocked off the top spot at the next
year's competition.
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Archery, unlike wrestling, is a contest in which both
men and women can compete. The contest was traditionally required
the participants to spear a live marmot (a creature similar
to the American groundhog) from a distance of 110 yards, but
modern competitions can be either stationary, or performed
on horseback, where the challenge is to shoot small leather
targets 75 - 110 yards away. Again, contestants generally
wear traditional costume, in this case, pointed hats and long
robes tied with a brightly coloured silk sash, they also often
use traditional bows made from reindeer bone. Entertainingly,
competitors often do a small song and dance of praise when
they hit their target.
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The horseracing is both the grand finale and the highlight
of the festival, about 200 horses race over rugged terrain,
for about 20 miles, a distance set during the rule of Genghis
Khan. It was originally a race of adults on wild, untamed
horses, but it is now children aged 4-12 years riding in saddles
or bareback. In rural areas, children learn to ride horses
at a very early age, to such an extent that they often joke
that 'Mongols are born on horseback', and these small children
are much lighter, allowing their horse to travel at even greater
speeds. As the race becomes more and more popular, accidents
are on the increase, which has led to some protest, and suggestion
that the youngest of these children should be prevented from
competing for their own safety.
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There is as much ceremony associated with the horse race
as with all other aspects of the festival; the race only begins
after a parade of all the participants, and the singing of
the traditional hymn, Tumnii Ekh, and the chanting
of the Buddhist mantra, Giingoo, to aid the concentration
of participants. Both the winner and the rider who come last
are rewarded with prizes, on the basis of a Mongolian proverb
'better to break one's spine than one's spirit', emphasising
the importance of encouraging youngsters to compete the next
year, rather than give up. Celebrity, nationalism and prizes
add to the competitive spirit of the festival, though winners
are more likely to receive practical rewards such as blankets,
food or possibly cash than the shiny trophies we receive in
Western competitions - of much more use to the generally poor,
nomadic contestants.
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by Guilia Vincenzi |