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Pashmina was considered a fine, luxurious fibre by
the ancient Mogul emperors, who took as much pride in their
stunning shawls as they did in their precious jewels. It has
been regarded as an essential element of any well-to-do lady's
wardrobe since the 18th century, when the exquisite fabric
captured the attention of fashionable circles throughout the
western world.
Light, soft, and sensual to the touch, pashmina wool, also
known as cashmere, is incredibly warm. The word pashmina actually
comes from the word 'pashm', meaning 'warmth'. The wool comes
from the underbelly of the Capra Hircus goat, which
wanders in the sub zero temperatures of the high Himalayas
in Nepal, some 14,000 feet above sea level. The goats grow
this extra layer each winter to insulate themselves against
the rigours of this extreme climate.
If properly cared for, pashmina garments will last a lifetime,
and actually become even softer on the skin with wear. Pashmina
garments are handed down through the generations of wealthy
families as heirlooms.
Master craftsmen
With the coming of summer, the Himalayan goats shed their
warm winter coats. Their underbellies are covered with two
different types of wool: the fine, soft pashmina and a coarser
outer layer. The wool is gathered by local women, who comb
it thoroughly to separate the pashmina from the thicker, less
luxuriant wool.
Each pashmina fibre is about one sixth the width of a human
hair, and one shawl requires about 24 ounces of wool, the
annual output of about 4 goats. Pashmina is too delicate for
mechanical looms, and must therefore be spun and woven by
hand. The techniques for producing fine pashmina products
have been handed down through the generations, and sometimes
the women in a family have carried out the practice since
the days of the Mogul Empire.
Pashmina wool is often woven together with Chinese silk. Not
only does the silk retain warmth but it also gives the finished
product a shiny sleekness and added durability. The yarn is
hand-dyed either before or after weaving, using either natural
vegetable pigments or dyes which do not contain metals.
Where to bag a bargain
Pashmina's popularity has led to extortionate prices in department
stores throughout the western world. Those who can't resist
the lure of a soft, sensual pashmina shawl might find themselves
shelling several hundred dollars for the object of their desire,
albeit of the finest quality.
You're bound to get better value if you buy direct from the
community which makes these lusted after garments. Shops and
stalls throughout Kathmandu sell a huge variety of
different coloured pashmina products, and are usually open
to offers short of the asking price - often as low as $30
for a shawl.
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