|
Our journey path (as featured
in Treks in a Wild World)
Zay Harding visits the beautiful area of Vieng Xai in Northeastern
Laos to explore caves where Pathet Lao hid during the secret
war and learns trekking tips about UXO's from war
Vieng Xai Cave City
Vieng Xai in Northeast Laos is a striking valley of
verdant hills and limestone cliffs riddled with caves. In
fact, there are 800 known caves. These caves were the headquarters
of the communist revolutionaries, the Pathet Lao, during
the "secret war". After the war, the King and his
wife were banished here until their reported death a few years
ago. The trogolodyte city was highly organised. Specific caves
were designated as shops, banks, factories, printing presses
and hospitals. The cave of the communist chief extends 500
ft into a cliffside that was scaled by a rope before steps
were added. Its various rooms included a political party centre,
reception room, meeting room and library. The caves are located
in the heart of Hua Pan, Laos' 'revolutionary province'.
Did you know?
- The Lao communist party was formed in Sam Nua in
1955, and compared to the rest of Laos, communist ideals are
still very much in evidence. Loud speakers blast propaganda
from 6 o'clock in the morning.
- From 1964 to 1973 the Americans waged an undeclared 'secret
war' against the communists in Laos as part of their struggle
against the Vietnamese. A group of German bomb disposal experts
are cleaning up what was left behind. An estimated 2 million
tonnes of bombs were dropped in the region - more than in
the whole of WW II.
- The caves were like complete underground cities, which
were finished by the 1960's and housed thousands.
Each cave is named after the people who lived in them. They
also had multiple exits. Russian oxygen pumps were installed
to provide air and in the case of chemical attack.
- Some people lived in the caves for 9 years or more, never
venturing above the ground. They were dug by Laotian, North
Korean and Russian comrades.
Trekker's tips
- Laos has been a dumping ground for other people's bombs
and a battleground for other peoples wars for the last
100 years resulting in the dubious distinction of being per
capita the most bombed country on earth. Trekkers should always
use a guide and never kick or pick up man-made metal objects
as unexploded bombs litter the countryside and claim the lives
of hundreds of locals every year. It is wise to stick to the
pathways.
- Leeches can also pose a problem for the squeamish
and travellers in the wet season should protect themselves
with leech socks and tobacco juice.
- Until a few years ago the area was off-limits to tourists
and the caves treated as something of a military secret. Permits
can take months to obtain. The trek into the caves is approximately
15 miles (28km) and journeys through one of the poorest and
most isolated areas of Laos.
|
