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Next, cycle under the flame trees in Hue, the ancestral
home of the Nguyen Lords, with tombs overlooking the
Perfume River, savoring delicious food descended from
the kitchens of the Vietnamese emperors.
From Hue, fly to Hanoi, the quiet capital of reserved
people prettily decorated with reflective lakes and French
colonial buildings. From there its an easy jumping off point
for Ha Long Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage site, where
you can relax in the jade green waters and attempt to count
the 3,000 limestone islets that rise like dragons teeth, turtle
shells and other whimsical names bestowed on the rocks by
inventive fishermen.
To the far north lies the rich ethnic minority villages that
offer fantastic trekking and cultural exploration opportunities.
Conquer Mt. Fansipan, Vietnams's highest mountain,
or explore Dien Bien Phu, the tiny valley that ended
France's colonial legacy in Indochina, or practice your Thai
with the numerous groups that inhabith this misty, cool region.
Whether its lying on a beach, gorging on delicious spring
rolls and grilled prawns, exchanging smiles with some of the
world's freindliest people, or attempting to count the different
shades of green in the verdant agricultural regions, it's
all waiting for you in Vietnam, the Land of the Descending
Dragon.
Climate and environment
The Red River Delta in the north and the the Mekong
Delta in the south are the main agricultural regions,
producing enough rice to make the country the 2nd largest
rice exporter. In between are numerous mountain ranges (three
quarters of the country is mountainous) that are covered in
lush rainforest, and are inhabited only by ethnic tribes.
The Vietnamese are a lowland people and shun the mountains
for the warmer flat plains most suitable for rice farming.
The forests of Vietnam are thought to contain 12000 plant
species of which only 7000 have been identified. It has an
enormously diverse fauna with over many rare large mammals
including the elephant, Javan rhino, tiger, leopard, black
bear. Tragically Vietnam's wildlife is in precipitous decline
as forests have been destroyed and waterways polluted. In
addition uncontrolled illegal hunting has exterminated the
local populations of many species. There are over 100 recognised
endangered species of animal and bird in Vietnam.
There are really no good or bad times to visit, because where
there is rain and stifling heat, there is also usually cooler
dry weather. In fact, the average temperature year round in
cities like Ho Chi Minh averages over 30C (80F). Beware
of cold winters in the North near the mountain ranges. Between
July-November, Typhoons can develop along the eastern coast
and can be very damaging.
The Vietnamese New Year Festival of Tet that falls
in January or early Feb can be a tricky time to visit the
country as flights are fully booked and accommodation can
almost impossible to find. If you do decide to go, its best
to find a good place to pause for at least a week because
everything is closed though you may get invited to attend
the parties that go on at Vietnamese people's houses.
People
Vietnam has a population of 80 million, and is the most populated
in Southeast Asia. It is home to a total of 54 ethnic groups
including the Vietnamese themselves, known as Kinh.
Among these ethnic groups the largest are the Tay, Tai
H'mong, Jarai and Dao. Over 84% of the country
is ethnically Vietnamese, with just 2% ethnic Chinese, who
are concentrated in the cities. Small pockets of Chams
still live in areas of central Vietnam, and the Mekong Delta
is home to many ethnic Khmers. 90% of Vietnamese are
Mahayana Buddhists, the form of Buddhism found in Korea,
China, and Japan. 5% are Christian, and the remainder are
Muslim, Cao Dai, or Hindu.
Language
The Vietnamese are of the Mon-Khmer lineage, Mon (from Burma)
and Khmer (from Cambodia). Numerous ethnic language are spoken
in the highlands, and are related to Pacific Polynesian dialects.
English and French are widely understood, especially in the
tourist industry, although Vietnamese over the age of 35 may
speak Russian or Eastern European Languages, even Spanish
(having lived in Cuba), all a result of the Communist system.
Cash
The national Vietnamese currency is the Dong. It's
mostly accepted for everyday transactions and meals, though
many room rates and expensive items are quoted in US dollars.
Its very easy to change US dollars or other major currencies
in banks, or gold shops near markets (who operate as unofficial
changers and avoid long lines at banks which is often a time
waster). If travelling off the beaten track, change large
amounts into Dong before setting off as banks often don't
have enough cash to provide you with the bills. When you do
change money, ask for small bills; streetside vendors rarely
can break a 50,000 VN Dong note and taxi drivers are notorious
for not having change, at all hours of the day. Also, if prices
for everyday items (drinking water, meals in local restaurants)
are quoted to you in US dollars, its most likely a rip off
so look elsewhere.
Approximate Dong Rates:
1 US Dollar equals 15,000 Dong
1 Euro equals 16,000 Dong
1 British Pound equals 25,000 Dong
Currency rates vary from month to month, check with you local
exchange bureau for up to date rates.
Vietnam is a relatively cheap country, if you stick to budget
options, though 5 star hotels and first class restaurants
are creeping in so if you want luxury you can now get it for
a price. With so many travelers and expats living in Vietnam,
eating out is cheap, and a midrange meal will cost $2-3 US
dollars. Food added to budget accommodation (about $10 for
a private room, $5 for a shared dorm) will be about $20 a
day.
Food
With over 500 national dishes in Vietnam, many originating
from the Imperial kitchens serving Vietnamese emperors, there
is a wealth of choice, for all budgets. The simplest is a
beef or chicken broth (Pho) served 24 hours a day that
is garnished with mint leaves, beansprouts and lime juice.
Spring rolls (Cha Gio), rice noodle dishes topped with
grilled beef (Bun Thit Nuong) and sour soup (Canh Chua) are
all favorites.
Famous for its pungent aroma, the fermented fish sauce, Nuoc
Mam, serves as the quintesential Vietnamese condiment,
served with all meals, even breakfast, it doesn't always strike
a chord with westerners. (Much like the much despised durian
fruit which is widely enjoyed in July and August).
With so much of the food in Vietnam influenced by Chinese
culture, many exotic meats such as shark's fin, field rats,
dog and cobra are eaten to increase virility, cure colds or
increase blood circulation. Many of Vietnam's forests have
been decimated of wildlife to cater to these markets, so it
pays to be educated before eating.
Though Vietnamese cuisine doesn't include a western style
'dessert,' fresh fruit is widely available and is cheap and
makes an excellent travelling snack. The Vietnamese coffee
industry began during the French colonial period, and continues
to grow in the Central Highlands. Served thick and hot, its
often slathered with equal parts sweetened condensed milk
before being poured over a glass of crushed ice.
Dress
Vietnamese are conservative dressers, a combination of modesty
and the reluctance to expose skin to the sun to avoid a tan.
(Tans are the mark of farmers and street vendors) Shorts are
commonly considered low class and suitable for children although
they are used to seeing travelers wear them. Long, loose pants
and short sleeved shirts with collars are common local attire,
though t shirts and tank tops are acceptible. As you travel,
many places offer hand made clothes using local materials
that are of excellent quality and value, especially those
made of silk.
Travel
The most fun way to travel in Vietnam is by train,
especially the overnight journeys. It's slow but comfortable
and an airconditioned bunk is relatively cheap. The buses
are quicker than the train but still slow, very crowded and
dangerous. Most people travel by tourist bus on an 'Open Ticket,'
which is safer and quicker, though the experience is slightly
less than cultural, as they are packed with travellers just
like yourself. Motorbike hire is possible if you're
confident enough on the dangerous roads. Vietnam Airlines
has a monopoly on domestic flights although prices are falling:
the two hour flight between Hanoi and Saigon now costs foreigners
$110 US dollars, half that of 5 years ago. Hue to Hanoi will
set you back about $80 USD, a flight of just over one hour.
Visas
Vietnamese visas are some of the world's most expensive,
and can take as long as a week to process. Unlike its neighbours,
visas are not issued upon arrival for independent travellers,
and careful planning is necessary to avoid the issued visa
to expire, as they are valid for just a month after the embassy
stamps it in your passport.
The old entry point and exit point regulations are no longer
a problem and travellers can enter or leave Vietnam through
any point they choose. Whatever you do, dont lose the yellow
immigration/customs form, as leaving without one can result
in hours of hassles and forms.
Business visas are valid for 3-6 months, and are easier to
arrange once inside Vietnam; any major travel agent can do
the paperwork, though the actual visa must officially be picked
up at a specified overseas Vietnamese Embassy.
Health
With the increased use of refrigeration across Vietnam, eating
out is less of a threat than it used to be, though ice and
unpeeled fruits should be avoided. Dehydration is a more common
ailment and drinking lots of bottled water, which is available
everywhere, is essential.
Dengue fever, hepatitis, malaria, rabies, typhoid and
tuberculosis could all be a threat if you don't get your
inoculations before leaving home.
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