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Because of Costa Rica's natural allure, it's tempting to head
off into the isolation of the countryside, but to do so you'll
miss out on the vibrancy of its people and culture. Costa
Rica has a proud record of democracy and tolerance especially
for this part of the world. The government has been democratically
elected since the 1800s, the army was abolished in 1948 and
its national budget is geared towards spending on social infrastructure
- 23% goes on education compared with 3% on the police force!
In between marvelling at nature's gifts, set aside some time
to enjoy the easy-going nature of the tico (Costa Rican) people
and come to understand the meaning of their saying 'pura vida!'
(natural living).
Nicaragua
The largest country in Central America, Nicaragua has been
the scene of dynamic events in recent decades, making headlines
around the world for political upheaval and conflict. Forty
years of the Samosa dictatorship provided the catalyst for
the Sandinista revolution in the late 1970's, which was then
followed by the Contra war, supported by the United States.
Democratic elections in 1990 finally brought peace to the
country and it's now on the mend.
A trip to Nicaragua is sure to be an interesting and memorable
experience. It's a challenge for adventurous travellers since
it has little tourist infrastructure and requires resourcefulness
in getting around. It also has beautiful geographic features
to explore: volcanoes, rivers, beaches and mountains are all
there to be trekked, complimented and photographed. You can
also visit and meet some of the most interesting indigenous
peoples of the region including the Lenca and Chortí
in the west and the Miskito of the Mosquito Coast.
In fact meeting people and learning about their turbulent
past is the highlight of most people's trip.
Honduras
Honduras retains a low profile on the tourist map of Central
America. The original Banana Republic, it was out of bounds
for decades due to its political upheaval. A brief war with
El Salvador in 1969 and its complicity with the USA as a training
ground for the Contras in the war against the revolutionary
Sandinista government in Nicaragua brought instability to
a country always on the brink of economic meltdown.
Now, with all that in the past, it's a diamond waiting to
be unearthed: Mayan ruins, white sand beaches and tropical
rainforest abound. Its prospects suffered a setback in 1998
when it was devastated by Hurricane Mitch, one of the strongest
hurricanes in the twentieth century, but with its history
of misfortune Honduras has been quick to bounce back.
El Salvador
During the ruthless civil war of the 1980s, El Salvador was
seldom out of the world's headlines as a maelstrom of atrocities
ravaged the country. The Peace Accords were finally signed
in 1992 and the world's attention turned to other matters
while the Salvadorenos set about rebuilding their lives. Perhaps
because of these lingering memories of violence, tourism has
been slow to pick up in the decade since. Yet those who are
trickling into El Salvador find a country just as blessed
with stunning vistas as its neighbours. From imposing mountain
chains and perfectly formed volcanoes to fertile coffee plantations
and wild Pacific beaches, El Salvador is awash with natural
beauty.
Travel in El Salvador is not as easy as the rest of Central
America; it lacks tourist infrastructure and thus appeals
to the more adventurous. It can also be a painful eye-opener
for many westerners unused to the level of poverty suffered
by much of the population. Its society is still racked by
searing divisions of wealth with many people living in squalor
and scraping out an existence selling anything they can lay
their hands on from fruit to used batteries. Yet this is the
reason why it can also be the region's most rewarding destination.
There are western sponsored projects all over El Salvador
helping to develop education, health care, protect human rights
and environmental consideration. Voluntary work with one of
these organisations and gaining an insight into the real life
struggles of a country on the mend is an experience that you
will savour forever.
Cash
Costa Rica
The national currency is the Costa Rican Colón.
Approx. conversions:
$1 US= 500CR Colón
£1=650 CR Colón
€1=400 CR Colón
For up to date currency information, check the Currency
Converter.
Costa Rica is the go-getting yuppie of Central America and
certainly the most expensive country to travel in. Realistically
you need a budget of $30 to $60 per day if you want basic
comforts like your own bathroom and restaurant meals. The
best tours including flights and first class accommodation
will set you back at least $200 per day.
As with all Central America, the currency to deal in is US
Dollars. Take US Dollar travellers' cheques and good condition
dollar notes (but avoid $100 bills - after a recent counterfeit
scam Costa Ricans won't accept them). ATM machines are found
in cities and towns only and Visa and Mastercard are the most
widely accepted credit cards.
Nicaragua
The national currency is the Gold Córdoba.
Approx. conversions:
$1US = 15 Gold Córdoba
£1= 25 Gold Córdoba
€1=18 Gold Córdoba
For up to date currency information, check the Currency
Converter.
Nicaragua is a mid priced destination; on a tight budget
you can get by on $10 to $20 US per day if you stick to local
transport while more comfortable travel will set you back
$30 to $50 US. Balance your financial resources between cash,
travellers' cheques and credit cards. Travellers' cheques
can be difficult to change so confine your dealings to the
border crossings or the capital Managua. Mid-range
hotels and restaurants across Nicaragua accept major credit
cards - in some parts even the cheapest places will too but
it varies. Do your research in advance or you may be caught
short.
Honduras
The national currency is the Lempira.
Approx. conversions:
$1 US = 17 Lempira
£1= 28 Lempira
€1= 20 Lempira
For up to date currency information, check the Currency
Converter.
Even the biggest spenders have trouble parting with their
money in Honduras. In the capital Tegucigalpa you can live
very well indeed for around $50 US per day while budget travellers
can get three square meals and a passably clean room for under
$15 US. Like the rest of the region, the US Dollar is the
only readily acceptable currency although Lloyd's Bank in
Tegucigalpa will exchange Euros and Sterling for Lempira.
El Salvador
El Salvador operates a dual currency system with the US Dollar
and the Salvadoran Colón both in use.
Approx. conversions:
$1= 9 Salvadoran Colón
£1= 14 Salvadoran Colón
€1= 10 Salvadoran Colón
For up to date currency information, check the Currency
Converter.
El Salvador is another inexpensive destination. The extra
money you have to spend on accommodation and food compared
with neighbouring countries is balanced by the cheap local
transportation. On a budget you can squeeze by on $10 US per
day with some inventive accounting while people seeking better
accommodation and restaurant meals will part with around $20
to $25 per day.
From January 2001 the Colón began to be phased out
in favour of the US Dollar; by now it may have disappeared
altogether. It's imperative therefore to deal in the Dollar.
It's hard to find banks that change travellers' cheques so
keep these to minimum and use cash and credit cards.
People
With the exception of Costa Rica, the peoples of Central
America have weathered turbulence, violence and uncertainty
in recent decades. There's no denying their resilience in
the face of political, economic and social traumas evidenced
by the comradeship and warmth pervading most towns and villages
across the region. You'll find yourself welcome pretty much
everywhere, especially if you can drop a few Spanish phrases.
Despite this there are unsavoury characters amidst the mix
of people you'll encounter - as in every country in the world.
The hangovers of war, endemic poverty in some regions and
the increase in tourism mean that visitors may be prey to
robbery and assault by armed gangs. This is rare, especially
on the beaten track, however you should never drop your guard
altogether. If in doubt, the best source of information about
the safety of a place is the inhabitants themselves, especially
hotel and restaurant owners.
Travel
Your transport choices depend on the country you're traversing
and what budget you're on. There's no hard and fast rule for
choosing one mode of transport over another; being on a tight
budget doesn't mean you should take the less costly boat instead
of the plane if there are safety issues to consider; while
a plane journey may be quicker and more comfortable than a
bus but you won't experience the true-life chaos involved
in Central American travelling.
Costa Rica
Bus and plane are the best options in Costa
Rica. The domestic airlines SANSA and Travelair
are popular so book as early as possible. The bus network
is well developed although connections between towns are limited.
Getting from A to B will often entail returning to the capital
and taking another bus out. Luckily fares are cheap with no
destination over $7 US.
Nicaragua
Nicaraguan travel is based on buses and boats.
Buses are frequent and cheap although uncomfortable and rife
with pickpockets - keep a close eye on your possessions. Some
places are only accessible by boat including the Caribbean
coast and destinations on the Lago de Nicaragua (Lake
Nicaragua). Another option is air travel; recommended
for trips from Managua to the Corn Islands and
Bluefields.
Honduras
Honduras is covered by a good network of buses to most
towns and augmented by boat services on the Caribbean
coast, between the Bay Islands and in La Mosquitia
(Mosquito Coast) where there's only one road. Air travel
is developing to support increased tourist numbers; there
are flights from Tegucigalpa to the cities of La
Ceiba and San Pedro Sula as well as the Bay
Islands.
El Salvador
El Salvador is so small it doesn't take long to get anywhere
in the country. Buses are very crowded but run frequently
and cheaply to most places of interest. Car rental
is available from the airport and San Salvador, although remember
that many of the roads are unpaved and locals are given to
erratic driving before you hire a vehicle.
Food
A popular misconception holds that the culinary aspect of
a trip to Central America is one of its low points. While
it's true that your diet will contain an unusually large proportion
of rice and beans, there's a lot more to Central American
food than just staples. Traditional meals include bajo
(a mix of beef, green plantains and cassava) and vigorón
(yucca served with fried pork skins and coleslaw) in Nicaragua
and papusas (cornmeal stuffed with cheese, refried
beans or chicharrón - fried pork fat) in El Salvador.
With the added regional penchant for hot sauces and chillis,
food here is actually a lot tastier than it's often given
credit for.
Local dishes are cheap and a great way to introduce yourself
to a new culture. Comida corrida or plato
del día is a hefty meal served at lunchtime
for a couple of dollars. The main course consists of a starch
(yucca, plantain or rice), beans and a fish or meat dish,
sometimes augmented by a soup or dessert. Find an eatery full
of local office workers at lunchtime and you'll have found
a good place for a set meal. Street vendors are also a source
of good cheap food and an authentic experience. Again, because
illnesses are often caused by unhygienic preparation, seek
out one that's busy - an indication that it's not considered
a health hazard by the locals.
Language
Spanish is the official language across Central America,
although there are regional differences in dialect and some
places where indigenous languages are still spoken. In Costa
Rica and Honduras you'll also come across Creole English
and Indian dialects, in Nicaragua you'll find these
languages and Miskito, while in El Salvador Nahua
is also spoken.
You can't rely solely on speaking English to get around.
Outside the urban areas, better hotels and travel agencies
you will need to have a basic grasp of Spanish. This will
also make your trip a more memorable and enriching experience.
It's amazing what unexpected opportunities arise from a chat
with a local - perhaps an offer of a room for the night, a
trip to a waterfall that's not listed in your guidebook or
an invitation to join them for a drink or three of the local
tipple!
Either you can learn Spanish before you leave or wait until
you get to Central America and take a language course there.
At home, buy a textbook and tapes a couple of months in advance.
It takes commitment to learn by on your own so make sure you
draw up a schedule and stick to it. Practise with friends
who speak the language or on the staff at a Latino restaurant.
To train your ear to the rhythms listen to Spanish radio stations
and music. An easier way for many people (who have the time)
is to attend a language school at the beginning of the trip.
Costa Rica is the best place to do this. There are lots of
schools in San José where tuition costs an average
of $300 US per week including home stay with a local family
(this is the way to do it since it increases your immersion
in the language and culture). You can also study on the beach
at La Dominical near Monteverde, Heredia and
Manuel Antonio.
Climate
Costa Rica and El Salvador both have two distinct
seasons: the wet (winter) and the dry (summer). Costa Rica's
winter runs from the end of April to mid-December while El
Salvador experiences a shorter, sharper wet season from May
to October. It's best to travel in the transition period between
seasons to side step the crowds in Costa Rica and the dusty
heat in El Salvador.
Because of their mountainous regions, Honduras and
Nicaragua have less defined seasons. Altitude greatly
affects weather; the higher it is, the colder it gets. In
Honduras the interior highland region is cool throughout the
year. The rainy season runs from May to October but it can
rain at any time on the Caribbean coast and the Bay Islands.
Nicaragua has an even stauncher alpine climate. The
wet season in the Pacific lowlands, Mangua and the highland
regions fall from May to November but the latter area is much
cooler than the coasts. The Caribbean coast sees an even shorter
period of dry weather from March to May but it remains pretty
hot and susceptible to rain. The best overall time to visit
is December to April.
Dress
Central Americans are pretty conservative, so it pays to
observe what the locals are wearing before stepping out in
your usual attire. They also strive to be as well dressed
as possible so you should too; wearing ripped or dirty clothing
may be considered offensive.
Women should forget about the adage 'less is more' when it
comes to clothing. The more flesh you show the more attention
you'll get and the more open to men's advances you'll appear.
Keep your legs and chest well covered and only wear shorts,
tank tops and bikinis on the beach. Shorts are also out for
men. Only little boys wear them in this part of the world
and you risk being derided. Another fashion faux pas is donning
indigenous clothing while you're in its country of origin.
Health
By reading up on the basic health concerns - from hygiene
to immunisations - before you depart, you're unlikely to suffer
anything more than a touch of diarrhoea on your travels.
The key areas to consider are immunisations, malaria prevention
and everyday health and hygiene. Immunisations you should
have for all destinations are tetanus and diphtheria,
polio, hepatitis A and B and typhoid. Malaria,
carried by mosquitoes, is a definite risk in several regions
of Central America and there are several anti-malarial drugs
available although the debate rages as to whether they are
necessary if you take enough precautions. Seek advice from
your doctor and the above web sites.
Most illnesses that afflict travellers result from consuming
contaminated food or drinks. Don't drink the tap water or
have ice in drinks instead buy mineral or treated water in
sealed bottles. Eat food that's served piping hot from busy
outlets (if possible), only eat fruit and vegetables if they're
peeled or cooked and steer clear of undercooked or raw meat
and seafood.
As long as you're careful you don't have to worry. Too many
people read the list of potential diseases they can contract
in tropical countries and allow that to put them off, forgetting
that there's a whole range of health nasties that can affect
them in their native country too.
For more information on international travel and health, check out the World
Health Organization website.
Visas
Costa Rica
Most visitors don't need a visa to enter Costa Rica, however
the length of stay is determined by nationality. Citizens
of the USA, Canada, the UK and most Western European countries
are allowed a 90-day stay. Citizens of Australia, New Zealand,
France, Sweden and most Eastern European and Latin American
countries are granted 30 days.
Nicaragua
Citizens of most western countries require visas with the
exception of people from the USA and UK who are issued a tourist
card (costing $5 US) valid for 90 days upon arrival. Visas
are valid for 30 days from the date of issue and can be extended
twice for a total of three months at immigration offices in
Managua.
Honduras
Visa requirements are subject to frequent change, so make
sure you check with the embassy before departure. Currently,
citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, the USA and UK,
as well as most Western European countries, don't need a visa
but are issued a tourist card upon entry. You can get an extension
every 30 days for up to six months from any immigration office.
El Salvador
Citizens of most western countries don't need visas but get
a tourist card (costing $10) valid for 90 days upon arrival.
Citizens of other countries require visas. The single entry
visa stamp runs for 90 days from the date of issue, not the
date of arrival. |
