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Ultimate Scandinavia
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Siauliai Hill of Crosses
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For an insight into Lithuania's religious beliefs and troubled
political past, visit the Hill of Crosses at Siauliai
(pronounced shoe-lay). Lithuanians know it as Kryi
Kalnas. This amazing site has been built over hundreds
of years by devoted pilgrims from all over the world. Not
only crosses, but giant crucifixes, carvings of Lithuanian
patriots, statues of the Virgin Mary and thousands of tiny
effigies and rosaries have been brought here and assembled
into a growing religious tribute that will take your breath
away.
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History of the Hill of Crosses
The real reason for the Hill's existence lies buried in Lithuania's
history. The nearby industrial town of Siauliai was founded
in around 1230 AD, and was occupied by Teutonic knights during
the 14th Century. The first crosses were placed on the Hill
during this time, probably to represent the faith and resistance
of local Lithuanians against the foreign invaders. Since then,
the place has come to signify the peaceful endurance of Lithuanian
Catholicism despite the threats it has faced throughout history.
Invaded by Russia in 1610, Lithuania disappeared altogether
in the Partitions of Poland carried out between 1772 and 1796.
When the political structure of Eastern Europe fell apart
in 1918, Lithuania once again declared its independence. Throughout
this time, the Hill of Crosses was used as a place for Lithuanians
to pray for peace, for their country, and for the loved ones
they had lost.
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Most recently, the site took on a special significance during
the years 1944 to 1991, when Lithuania was officially part
of the Lithuanian Soviet Socialist Republic of the Socialist
USSR. Continuing to travel to the Hill and leave their tributes,
Lithuanians used it to demonstrate their allegiance to their
original identity, religion and heritage. Although the Soviets
worked hard to remove new crosses almost as soon as they arrived,
and bulldozed the site at least three times, by 1985 they
had given up and Hill of Crosses flourished again.
Visiting the Hill of Crosses today
The Hill of Crosses is a peaceful and thought-provoking place
to visit, and you can take your time wandering through the
tributes and statues or read messages and prayers left by
the pilgrims. You'll also gain a moving insight into Lithuania's
troubled political past. Visitors to the site are usually
thoughtful and quiet and you're expected to act in a respectful
way - remember that pilgrimages to this site are still happening
today. Try to visit on a clear, sunny day when you'll be able
to spend plenty of time looking at the works of art, messages
and images you will find here.
The crosses are as varied as the visitors who come to see
them. Some are carved from wood, others are made from metal
or simply plaster. Dramatic crucifixes stand poignantly among
the tributes, some of them many feet tall. Many carry inscriptions
left by pilgrims, and those crosses planted long ago are festooned
with tokens of prayer left by later visitors, such as pictures
of loved ones or national heroes, and sometimes tiny portraits
of favoured saints. If there's a breeze in the air, you'll
hear the magical music of rosaries, bells and other hanging
tributes chiming together as you approach.
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By Isobel Stewart
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