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Amsterdam City Guide

This is not merely a city of sex, drugs, bicycles and … canals. If you're not interested in getting stoned or seedy, Amsterdam also offers a superlative range of art, architecture and culture. Renowned for its liberalism (the age of consent for gay men was lowered to sixteen in 1971), Amsterdam is guaranteed to amaze everyone by its openness and freedom enjoyed by tourists and its lively community of nearly one million people who reside close to the canal banks. With more than 60 miles of flowing canals, the city also boasts more trees per square mile than any other capital in Europe. Add to this the supply of imaginative and relaxed bars and restaurants on offer, and you have a city that meets any travellers' desires.

Where to stay

Space is at a premium, which applies for residents as well as visitors, so its recommended to book anything up to three months in advance for the best prices - especially in summer. The best hotels are small family run ones overlooking the canals, in the Jordaan area if you want a quieter hotel, while the majority of backpacker hostels can be found in the Centraal area.

There are some pleasant and authentic places to be found:

- The Hemp Hotel (Fredericksplein 15) calls itself a "smoker hotel" and promotes products in everything hemp. It has warm, colourful and themed rooms, including a ...yes, hemp-induced breakfast in the price (not the same as hash).

- The Hilton (Apollolaan 138, 710 6000) is not an obvious choice due to its location. However, if you are lucky enough to book room 902, you can recreate John Lennon and Yoko Ono's Bed-in they staged in 1969.

- How about the city's only floating hotel? The Amstel Botel is moored at Oosterdokskade 2-4, 626 4247, and remember to ask for a riverside room.

Start exploring

Firstly, get your bearings and experience one of the best views of Amsterdam by taking a lift to the sixth floor of the Metz department store for a coffee or broodje (sandwich). Centraal Station is a good place to start and where much of your time will be spent. It is also where work started on the 170 canals that were dug in the 17th century and defines the heart of Amsterdam: Keizersgracht, Prinsengracht and Herengracht, one of the most famous canals.
The Amsterdam Culture Leisure Pass can also be bought at the Amsterdam Tourist office (across from Centraal Station), which gets you cut price access to museums.

Things to see and do

- Amsterdam has an exhaustive range of specialist shops dealing in antiques and jewellery - best seen in the Jordaan district - as well as some excellent markets. These include the Waterlooplein Flea Market and the Floating Flower Market on the Singel Canal.

- The Rijksmuseum (Stadhouderskade 42) houses Rembrandt's masterpiece The Nightwatch, which is worth the entrance fee alone, although it also includes the world's best collection of 17th-century Dutch art. (In October 2003, the museum will close for three years, although some rooms will remain open).

- A short walk away, the Van Gogh Museum (Paulus Potterstraat 7) should also not be missed as it holds the world's largest collection of his work of around 200 paintings, 500 drawings and Japanese prints. While you are in the area, learn all about the diamond cutting trade by visiting one of the factories.

- Why not learn about the story of Dutch beer, which dates back to 1864, at the Heineken Brewery Experience, located not far from the Rijksmuseum. The daily tour ends up in the See You Again bar, where you are invited to sample what you have just learned.

- For a more sober tour, Amsterdam would not be complete without a canal trip. Try Amsterdam Canal Cruises, located opposite the Heineken Experience.

- One of the most popular and lengthy-queue attractions in Amsterdam is the Anne Frank House. Here you can visit the house where for two years the young Frank wrote her diaries under Nazi occupation during the second world war.

- Check out and choose from a selection of hash, grass, space cakes and pre-rolled joints on the "menus" at one of the 300 licensed coffee shops, where prices range depending on your preferences to strength, rarity or how you want to feel. Sadly, a ban is due to take effect in January 2004, where shops will be allowed to sell joints, but customers will have to go outside to smoke due to new Dutch health laws related to tobacco, not marijuana.

Like marijuana, prostitution is legal on premises in the Netherlands, and is concentrated mainly in the Red Light District. The easiest way in is to enter on Damstraat and openly wander the streets for peep-shows, half-naked women in windows (be careful with your camera, for pickpockets and how you take your pictures), performance art and its many Chinese restaurants. If the mood takes you further, head for the famous Sex Museum (Damrak 18, open daily 10am), which caters for all tastes. It has an extensive collection of historical erotic art, objects and clothing, as well as vibrating chairs where you can watch from a selection of pornographic film clips.

- Like mayonnaise on your chips, Dutch meatballs or swallowing herring in one? Amsterdam's many food stalls cater for your preferences.

- For more sedate night time entertainment, visit the National Ballet or the Stadsschouwburg, the oldest known theatre in the Netherlands.

Travel Practicalities

People

If you find it hard to leave Amsterdam, this could be because you have struck up conversation with the Amsterdammers. Almost all locals are friendly and speak excellent English, although Dutch is the dominant language. The Netherland's liberal attitude also makes Amsterdam one of the gay and lesbian centres in the world, with it also being the first European city to elect a lesbian mayor, and the police and military openly recruiting homosexuals. Amsterdam's Gay Pride Festival takes place at the beginning of August each year.

Travel

Amsterdam is a small city and can be confusing to get around. Instead of head-scratching, it's best to buy a map or guide book. Cycling is a popular and inexpensive mode of transport, generally seen as one of the less dangerous cities in Europe due to its expansive cycle lanes. The city's efficient tram system is also a handy way to see the city, and to save time buy a strippenkaart ahead of your journey at a newsstand or tobacconist. The No. 20, or Circletram, is recommended, as the route takes you through the main sightseeing routes.

When to go

Amsterdam's temperatures and climate are similar to England. From November-February there are fewer tourists, while this is also the best time to book hotels in advance for the summer months. The celebrations around Queen's Day, at the end of April, can be extremely busy, as with the Grachtenfestival in the third week of August.

Average Temperatures: March-May (Spring): 47 ºF, June-August (Summer): 62 ºF, September-November (Autumn): 51 ºF, December-February (Winter): 38 ºF

Currency

The currency of the Netherlands has been the Euro since 2002.
Euro exchange rates very daily.For up to date currency information, check the Currency Converter.

Visas

A valid American, Canadian or EEC passport is all that is needed for entry to the Netherlands (for a period of up to three months), while no vaccinations are required.