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Practical travel tips
Visas and entry
No passports are required for British citizens travelling
to Dublin directly from Britain, although some form of identification
may be needed. EU and Swiss citizens can use either a passport
or an official national identity card, while all other nationalities
require passports and a few require visas.
Language
English is the main language, with about 5% of the
population also speaking Irish, or Gaelic, as it is
known locally.
Cash
Local currency is now the Euro, with many shop price tags
showing the conversion between the Euro and the old currency
of the Irish punt. It's a moderately expensive city to visit,
with prices on a par with Paris and only slightly cheaper
than London. ATM are found everywhere around the city and
bank's are open 6 days a week to change traveller's cheques.
When to go
Dublin's climate is mild and temperate. Winter temperatures
stay relatively constant around 4-8C, although be warned -
the wide city streets accentuate the effects of cold strong
winds! Summer temperatures are pleasant in the early to mid
20s, but bring with the sun increased numbers of tourists
and higher prices, especially in the school holiday period
of July and August.
St Patrick's Day on 17th March is always a popular time
to visit. Celebrating the life of the patron saint of Ireland,
St Paddy's Day is a major festival for both the city and the
country as a whole, and is an excellent excuse for a Guinness-fuelled
party! Make your bookings well in advance if you're planning
a trip at this time, but don't worry about the city being
over-crowded as you'll be having such a great time, you won't
even notice!
Getting there
By air
Dublin Airport, the principal Irish international airport,
lies six miles north of the city centre. The national airline
Aer Lingus with its distinctive green shamrock logo offers
flights from here to all over the world, as do many other
major airlines.
Upon arrival, the Aircoach will take you to any of
15 city centre locations for E6 ($6 US) single or E10 ($10)
return per adult fare - accompanied children go free. For
a cheaper, slower alternative, take one of the local bus services.
All 41 services and the 16A will drop you in the city centre,
although be sure to find out the fare in advance from the
tourist information booth inside the terminal as you will
need to give exact change. Taxis are available but
there are many hidden charges for extra baggage, late hours,
extra passengers, and so on.
By sea
Ferry services also run to Dublin. Dublin Port and
Dub Laoghaire both have links to Liverpool, Holyhead
and the Isle of Man in England through Irish
Ferries, P & O Ferries and Stena Line services.
The SeaCat provides an extra-fast service to Liverpool
and the Isle of Man outside the winter months. Both ports
have good public transport links into Dublin city.
Getting around
Dublin city centre is both compact and attractive, therefore
the best way to get around is to walk. Wide streets and clearly
identifiable landmarks mean it's hard to get lost - if in
doubt find the River Liffey, which neatly divides the city
into north and south districts. The Grand Canal in
the south and Royal Canal in the north are also excellent
orienteering points, forming semi-circular arcs around the
city centre.
Various companies offer guided walking tours with themes from
Viking history to Irish folk music. Guided pub crawls are
prolific and popular, and there is even a James Joyce
tour, which takes in spots made famous by their inclusion
in the literary works of this Irish writer. Fans of Joyce
should visit the city on June 16th or Bloomsday - a
day dedicated to the celebration of the author, chosen because
the events of his great work Ulysses all took place
on this date.
Local bus services run all across the city - again,
you will need the exact fare. Alternatively, take a tour bus
that you can get on and off at your leisure at all the major
tourist spots throughout the day.
Where to stay
Top end
- For the ultimate in luxury, the 12th century Clontarf
Castle Hotel is situated about two miles from the city
centre, near the Malahide fishing village. A golf course,
gym facilities, hanging tapestries, roaring fires, chandeliers
and much more are at your disposal from between E113 and E292
per room!
- U2 fans should at least take a peek at the Clarence
Hotel on Wellington Street, which is owned by the band.
If you can't afford the pricey rooms, you could always console
yourself by splashing out on an expensive cocktail in the
Octagon bar!
Mid range
- For the more budget-conscious traveller, there are many
hostels and guesthouses to choose from. Bridge House
in Temple Bar is a typical example of a family-run guesthouse,
situated in two attractively refurbished Georgian townhouses.
Rooms have en suite facilities, TVs and phones and are available
for one to four people, starting at E59-79 (depending on season)
for a single to E160 for a quad. Breakfast is included in
the price.
Budget
- A popular cheaper alternative is Avalon House
on Aungier Street, which has single, double, group and dorm
rooms. Some rooms have en suite facilities, and individual
rates start from E15/E18 per night, dependent on season, including
a basic breakfast.
Things to see and do
History and architecture
Trinity College
Founded in 1592 by English Queen Elizabeth I, entrance to
this college was restricted to those of the Protestant faith
until 1793. Even after this date the Catholic Church forbade
entrance to all good Catholics, with the restriction only
being wholly lifted in 1970! Now the proud head of Irish academia
for all faiths, Trinity College has a reputation for academic
excellence in beautiful surroundings. Its splendid architecture
- spanning three centuries - cobbled squares and restful grassy
areas provide a peaceful retreat for visitors and residents
alike. Walking tours guided by students are available for
guests.
This famous 9th century text the Book of Kells is housed
in Trinity College and is a popular item on the tourist itinerary.
The entrance fee is perhaps a little high for the exhibition,
but the sight of such an ancient text is really quite amazing,
and the library beyond is impressive. Beware of long queues
during summer.
Cathedrals
St Patrick's Cathedral is Ireland's largest church, situated
on Patrick Street. Established in 1171 on the oldest Christian
site in Dublin, it was fully restored to its present day status
by the Guinness family at the end of the 19th century.
Down the road is Christ Church Cathedral, the oldest
building in Dublin. Originally founded in 1038 by the Norse
king of Dublin, the crypt has been used over the years not
only as a place of worship, but also as a market, a business
meeting place and even a pub! It is now home to the Treasures
of Christ exhibition.
Dublin Castle
The seat of English rule for seven centuries, Dublin Castle
is full of history. Built by the British in the 13th century,
it sits on Cork Hill next to Temple Bar. Informative guided
tours are available, but if it's the scenery you're interested
in you can skip the E3 admission fee and admire the exterior
and the courtyards instead.
Medieval heritage
Next to Christchurch Cathedral, Dvblinia -medieval
heritage centre offers life size reconstructions of times
gone by, a range of Viking artefacts and an excellent view
from the 17th century tower.
The Viking Adventure on Essex Street houses a large
array of Viking artefacts excavated from the area west of
Temple Bar. The 'adventure' is an exceptional interactive
experience that recreates life in the narrow streets of Viking
'Dyflin' 1,000 years ago.
General Post Office (GPO)
It might seem strange visiting the local post office, but
this building was the central site of the famous Easter
Uprising. Pictures of the protagonists are mounted on
the walls, along with a historical account of the events that
took place here in 1916.
Shopping
Whether it's designer clothes, handmade goods or some good
old tacky souvenirs you're after, you'll find it in on the
streets of Dublin.
Towards the Liffey, Temple Bar hosts some excellent
little shops with all sorts of interesting artefacts and gifts.
On Saturdays a book fair and food market also takes place
here and great bargains can be had, despite the tourist influx.
Formerly a rather run down area of Dublin, this district
along the south side of the Liffey has recently blossomed
into the city's new cultural quarter. Trendy cafes, restaurants,
bars, clubs and pubs feature aplenty, as do shops, galleries,
hostels and guesthouses. Popular with locals and tourists
alike, for many Temple Bar IS Dublin!
Grafton Street is perhaps the most upmarket shopping
area, featuring shops such as Brown Thomas, the large
designer department store; Weirs, an exclusive jewellers,
and the popular Bewley's Cafes. High street clothes
stores congregate here and there's a Marks and Spencers with
a delightful old-fashioned style frontage.
Nearby Castlemarket is cool, trendy and relatively
quiet, featuring high fashion clothes and footwear shops alongside
various cafes. Cooke's Café is situated here
- one of Dublin's most renowned restaurants.
North of the Liffey lies Henry Street, home to Arnotts
department store, many popular and relatively cheap clothing
and footwear stores, and the ILAC and Jervis Street
shopping centres.
Nearby Moore Street has a famous outdoor food market
well worth browsing for its colourful stalls and lively atmosphere.
Nassau Street along the south end of Trinity College
is the place to go for traditional Irish brands of woollens,
tweeds, ceramics, glassware and other goods - sometimes quite
pricey, but authentic.
Slightly cheaper goods can be found in the food, craft and
gift shops along Camden Street, where a daily outdoor
food market is held.
Food and Eating out
Traditional Irish cooking has strong roots in Dublin, but
is fast being overshadowed by the influx of other world cuisines.
Indonesian, Thai, Italian and Spanish restaurants have sprung
up all over the city, including the small but excellent Il
Primo on Montague Street, Salamanca Tapas Bar on
St Andrews Street and the basic but deservedly popular Bangkok
Café on Parnell Street.
Temple Bar hosts a number of trendy cafes serving both
tasty snacks and full meals, or for something special Thorntons
on Portobello Road is a Michelin starred restaurant overlooking
the Grand Canal, serving superb but expensive food by Dublin's
top chef Kevin Thornton.
It is, however, worth seeking out the hearty, pure flavours
of traditional Irish food. Bewley's Café on
Grafton Street is THE place for a traditional full Irish breakfast
- eggs, pork sausages, bacon, black and white pudding, tomatoes,
potato cakes, toast and plenty of coffee or tea to wash it
down.
Gallagher's Boxty House has successfully marketed Irish
cuisine to tourists, producing excellent food at moderate
prices. Dishes include cabbage and salted bacon, Irish stew,
oysters, beef stewed in Guinness, delicate Irish soda bread
and, of course 'boxtys' - potato pancakes. Try 'coddle', a
filling Dublin dish of boiled potatoes and pork sausages,
to keep yourself well fuelled for an afternoon's sightseeing!
Nightlife
Pubs
Dublin is a vivacious city, and no more so than at night when
the drink is flowing! Pubs and bars abound throughout the
city, from the trendy to the traditional.
- A safe bet for many is the eponymously named The Temple
Bar in the heart of the popular district - always lively,
always full and always good fun.
- The oldest pub in Dublin is the Brazen Head on Lower
Bridge Street. Featuring live music every night, the atmosphere
is vibrant and the staff friendly. Watch out for the low ceilings!
- Ireland's first microbrewery is the Porterhouse,
whose own brews include the famous Oyster Stout, made using
real oysters! Good food is served in a warm interior that
shows glimpses of the brewing process.
- Another pub popular with tourists is McDaids on Harry
Street, a famous literary pub. Once the city morgue, the building
was later converted to a chapel, hence the Gothic style interior.
Jazz and blues music is popular here.
Clubs
- After pub closing hours there are plenty of clubs and late
bars to choose from. The famous POD club in the stone
vaults of the old Harcourt Street railway station is a popular
swanky venue with a huge dance floor area and massive sound
system pumping out funky tunes.
- The Turk's Head Chop House on Parliament Street is
a good laugh, popular with tourists and locals alike. Labelled
a 'superpub' it has a huge interior split into two (there
is a second entrance called the Turks Head 2) with a lively
atmosphere, a mainstream downstairs dance floor and a late
bar every night.
Bars
- For bars, the Modern Green Bar on Wexford Street
is both relaxed and trendy with comfy seating, a good bar
menu and laid back funky music.
- Owned by Huey - the lead singer from the Fun Lovin' Criminals,
Voodoo is another trendy but easygoing bar with a New
York vibe, situated out on Aran Quay.
- Once you're done drinking, for the 2am snack monsters among
you there are plenty of places that offer takeaway or sit
in meal options. Chunky burgers are available at Ricks on
Dame Street, or visit Ali Babas on Parliament Street for some
Lebanese kebabs.
Comedy
- Dublin has an excellent comedy circuit featuring local and
international talent. Popular venues include the Comedy
Cellar in the International Bar and The Olympia
on Dame Street - check with your accommodation or local event
guides for upcoming events. Dublin's free Event Guide
is available both online and in print form throughout the
city - try accommodation, tourist office or newsagents for
this weekly guide to entertainment in the city.
Finally, a word of warning - if you're staying out of town
and planning a late night it might be wise to book your return
travel in advance, as demand far exceeds the supply of taxis
late at night.
Other attractions
Phoenix Park - Dubliners pride themselves on being
unpredictable, and indeed few tourists would expect to find
700 hectares of parkland in the middle of a city! Boasting
beautiful lakes and gardens, sports pitches, the 17th century
Ashtown Castle and the recently much improved Dublin
Zoo, Phoenix Park has enough entertainment, history and
tranquillity to fill a weekend of wandering. It is infamous
for being the site of the murder of Lord Cavendish,
British chief secretary for Ireland, by Irish nationalist
group The Invincibles in 1882. Aras an Uachtarian is
also situated here - the official residence of the Irish president.
The Guinness Storehouse - Adjacent to the Guinness
Brewery at St James Gate, this is the perfect place to sample
a pint of 'the black stuff'. A self-guided tour unfortunately
does not take in the brewery itself, but does introduce visitors
to the story behind the conception, manufacturing and advertising
of this famous 'porter'. The tour ends in the bar at the top
of the building with a complimentary pint of Guinness supped
whilst looking over the city - a fantastic view on a clear
day. This is a hugely popular attraction for all visitors
to the city, so if you want to avoid queuing book your tickets
in advance.
Sports - If dramatic sporting events are your thing,
visit Dublin in September when the all-Ireland finals of hurling
and Gaelic football take place. Both are traditional
Gaelic sports, the former being a type of aerial hockey where
the stick can be raised above your head, and the latter being
a mix between rugby and football, similar to Aussie Rules
but with a football rather than a rugby shaped ball. Games
are generally very exciting to watch, with rough unprotected
action, passionate players and rowdy supporters demonstrating
pride in the game's heritage almost as much as the game itself.
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