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Where it's at
If you are in Ireland to hike, there can be few better places
than Connemara. The name itself has the power to excite,
conjuring up images of cloud capped mountains. Add to this
empty miles of bog and moor land, the red, oranges, purples
and browns of the course moor grass, wild stray sheep in the
fields and on the roads, and the people few and far between,
all held in by the Atlantic Ocean on one side, the mountains,
lakes and forests on the other, and roofed with a ceiling
of moody clouds.
The main walks in Connemara are in the National Park,
the Maumturk Mountains and the grey peaks of the Twelve
Bens, which dominate the centre of Connemara. The mountains
look south over the plains of glacial lakes running south
to the sea in a maze of rivulets, sandy islands, and white
sparkling sandy beaches. It is not impossible to find yourself
sharing an isolated sand dune, accompanied only by a trickling
stream, quiet sheep, and the mist creeping up into the mountains.
Small, weather beaten houses are the norm here, and even those
are few and far between. Many locals make a living off the
land either by rearing sheep, or cutting turf from the bog
so you may well come across an occasional worker on your hike.
Walks and Sights:
There are trails to suit everyone from novice to expert,
and the landscape will not disappoint.
Connemara National Park and Diamond Hill
Diamond Hill is the lowest of the hills in the area, set
apart from the taller Twelve Bens. It is a good introduction
to the ecology and wildlife in the area, and is the easiest
walk, although it is still prone to sudden mists and rain,
as are all the trails in the area are.
Get a map, such as the Heritage Service's 'Connemara National
Park' 1:100,000. You may also want to buy the walking guide
from the Park visitor centre, The Sruffaunboy Nature Trail.
The walk itself immediately goes into expanses of moor land,
until you come to the Yellow Stream. From there a rough
path leads up into Diamond Hill, and back again.
Doughruagh & Kylemore Abbey
A slightly harder climb is into the steep hills around Kylemore
Abbey and its lough. The lonely, imposing monastery on the
lake is a beautiful sight during the climb up the craggy rock
which,
thankfully, is much easier than it appears. The monastery
and its grounds can be visited for a nice way to wind down
after the walk.
Central Maumturks
Any walk in the Maumturks is formidable. It is rough terrain
and there are few well trodden routes. It is fun however to
find your way amidst the rock, grass, scree, and heather.
The Twelve Bens - Glencoaghan Horseshoe
All hikes in the Bens are strenuous. The Glencoaghan Horseshoe
route takes you round the south of the Bens which are aligned
in a star-shaped pattern, and takes in their highest peak.
The northern summits, though not as tall, are much more complicated.
If you are worried about the dangers there is a mountain rescue
team. Get their number before you start.
There are plenty of other walks outside the National Park.
Some options to consider are:
A Benbaun Circuit, The Bangor Trail, The Foxford Way, The
Western Way -
Mayo, The Western Way - Connemara, Slievemore, Killary Harbour,
Tully Mountain and Errisberg.
Safety advice
- Before going on a hike in Connemara make sure you take
safety into account. Check the days weather forecast and be
prepared. Perhaps ask at the walking centre in Connemara,
or the rescue service if the weather is suitable for hiking.
Tell someone where and when you
are going.
- Bring a mobile phone if you have one.
- Don't forget to wear suitable footwear and clothing and
take ample food, light, drinks,
and maps.
- Remember not to wander off alone, and be careful where you
stand as Connemara is bog land. Bog land is quite wet, and
can sometimes be swampy. Don't get stuck by yourself in the
middle of nowhere along! You may not be lucky enough to have
one of the local turf cutters
passing by.
Practicalities
Travel
Connemara is reasonably well served by public transport and
has plenty of accommodation. Trains and buses from Dublin
to Galway City are very frequent. Car is the best way to get
to this part of Ireland, and the drive from Dublin is a smooth
3-4 hour affair. Travelling into Connemara will almost certainly
require a car. Public transport is available, but in the West
of Ireland it's best to drive yourself.
Where to stay
Once in Galway, the choice is whether to base yourself in
the city or move out into one of the small local towns.
It is difficult to pick out one town in which to base yourself
for hiking in Connemara. Galway City with its narrow
streets and bustling pubs, is a delight. It is by far the
West Coast's liveliest town and, perhaps, one of the liveliest
towns in Ireland. Its university attracts young, artistic,
vibrant students, and the resulting nightlife is excellent.
Pubs are full of mixed friendly crowds of both old and young,
foreign and local. For those who mourn the loss of the rock
and indie club, Galway is the place to be, although fans of
dance, R&B and techno are catered for also.
Galway's town centre lies on both sides of the River Corrib,
and its shops are sufficient for all the basics and gifts.
More attractive to visitors is the cracking daily market which
features some of the finest jewellery, breads, meats and cheeses
in Ireland. The city also attracts many musicians, artists,
spiritualists, and those involved in complimentary medicine,
creating a nice edge to a city that seems almost too cool
to be true, considering its location. There are many great
festivals in Galway so make sure to check out what is on before
you go.
Outside of Galway, any of the villages along the West Coast
are very cosy stays. Villages like Athenry, Clifden, Ballinasloe,
Spiddal, Tuam and many more will have good pubs, friendly
people, decent food, and a reasonable B&B for a night's
stay.
Weather
Connemara experiences the extremes of West Coast weather.
At times it seems as if a rain cloud is somehow following
you around, but even that can add to the beauty of the place.
On a good day there are few better places to be. Summer is
the best time to walk in Connemara as the wet ground may have
dried out. Bring boots, drinking water and wet gear.
Research
If you want to get a feel for the area it is always a good
idea to read some work from the area. Some famous writers,
from the locality or people who've written about it, are John
Millington Synge and Walter Macken who describe a bleak land
that the people have an inexplicable, strange connection too.
You will see why once you start your hike.
Other things to see and do in Connemara:
Dan O'Hara's Homestead at Connemara Heritage and History
Centre
Nestling on the hillside beneath the Twelve Bens is the restored
cottage of Dan O'Hara, a man made famous in song and
story. From the hilltop above the farm, there is a spectacular
view of the Roundstone Bog stretching towards the Atlantic
Ocean. To the left of the viewing
site there is an Upland Burial Site (5000 years old)
which has revealed much about early Bronze Age activity in
Connemara. The History Presentation and Audio Visual Guide
introduces Connemara's formative events from pre-historic
times to the present. Other features
include reconstructions of a crannóg (pre-historic
lake dwelling), ring fort, and clochaun (Early Christian Oratory).
Turf cutting, sheep herding and other demonstrations can be
arranged for groups on request.
A coastal drive or cycle
One of the best things a tourist in Ireland can do is travel
along the West Coast from Clare to Sligo, taking
in Bunratty, Ennis, Cliffs of Moher, Lisdoonvarna, Galway,
Clifden, Cong, Westport, Weesalia, Dromore and Collooney.
The first part of the trip from Clare to Galway gives you
the chance to see the Cliffs of Moher, Golleen Bay, Loop
Head (one of the nicest stretches of road in the country),
beach houses, The Bog Road between Cashel and Clifden,
and a host of other remote sights. The second part of the
journey from Mayo to Sligo is wild, remote countryside with
quiet roads and amazing scenery. There is an opportunity to
stay in castles for a few nights at Belleek Castle, Markree
Castle (one of the oldest in Ireland), and Teach Iorrais
(pronounced 'chock urrish'). Some of the many sights to look
forward to are the road along Lough Easky, the road
from Dromore West to Collooney, and the road
out to Teach Iorrais.
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