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Background to Laguna Veneta
Venice spreads well beyond the city's six sestieri;
the shallow waters of the Laguna Veneta are dotted
with a crumbling mosaic of islands including Murano, Burano,
and Torcello. Pearly and melting into the bright sky,
Venice's lagoon is one of the city's wonders: desolate, melancholic
and strange, it's a beautiful and seductive landscape with
a hundred personalities. The lagoon is 38 miles long and averages
over five miles across. To navigate this treacherous sea,
the Venetians developed an intricate network of channels marked
by bricole - wooden posts topped by orange lamps
- that kept their crafts from running aground. When threatened
they only had to pull out the bricole to confound the enemy.
The lagoon was therefore well known as 'the sacred walls of
the nation'.
History of the island of
Burano
At one time the 39 largest lagoon islands were densely inhabited,
each having a town or at least a monastery. Now all but a
few have been abandoned. Burano is a 40-minute six-mile
boat ride to the north of the lagoon. It has a population
of 7,000.
Like the other islands in the lagoon, Burano has probably
been inhabited since Roman times, well before the Lombards
established themselves on the mainland cities during the sixth
century. For years it remained subordinate to Torcello,
however it began to gain importance in the sixteenth century
when it became a centre for lace making. Its inhabitants
were spared the ravages of malaria because of it being situated
in the path of the wind and well away from stagnant waters.
The island had a period of glory which lasted until the end
of the eighteenth century. With the collapse of the Venetian
Republic, Burano, along with the other lagoon islands,
fell into decline. Named as the capital of the islands in
the northern part of the lagoon in the nineteenth century,
it finally became an integral part of Venice in 1923.
Fishing traditions in Burano
Fishermen have lived in Burano since the seventh century.
The marshland was no good for farming so the early lagoon
settlers fished. They ate the fish but it was also their currency
which they could trade for wood, wheat, and wine. Fish - in
particular anchovies, sardines, and mackerel - was for centuries
the staple food of most inhabitants of the Adriatic Coast.
For the people of the lagoon the tide brought in daily swarms
of these fish as well as mullet, gilthead, sole, sea bass,
and eel. Only a few species remain within the confines
of the lagoon during summer months, notably eel and mullet.
The astonishing variety of fishing techniques and fishing
vessels generated by Venice is the result of many centuries
of experience in managing the lagoon and its resources.
Traditional practices still take place today. In the lagoon,
reed cages are fastened to the bottom of the canal
with poles and the tide sweeps fish into their labyrinthine
nets. The same system is used for eels in the autumn
which are coaxed into large round wooden tubs known as vieri;
these are also used for keeping moeche - soft-shelled
crabs that eat one another to survive. Restrictions on fishing
practices are not just confined to the long arm of the modern
day European Union - an ancient stone inscription, marking
the minimum lengths of which different kinds of fish can be
sold so as not to endanger their reproductive capacity, can
still be seen in Rialto Market in Venice.
Things to see and do in
Burano today
Today, Burano is a marvellous island, a heaven that enchants
the tourists, not only for its history but also for its charm,
for the unreal silence of its mornings, contrasted with the
evenings with the happy bawling of the peculiar local dialect.
Burano offers a different pace of life to Venice - this is
the life of the lagoon. There is only one modest guest house
on the island and islanders treat the streets like their front
rooms and can be seen outside doing such activities as ironing,
making lace, and frying fish.
Colourful houses
Burano is the Legoland of the lagoon, where everything is
in brightly coloured miniature - the canals, the bridges,
the leaning tower and the houses painted in the deepest colours.
Tradition has it that fishermen painted their houses bright,
contrasting colours so they could identify their houses on
the way home in the misty lagoon. The island's most brightly
painted house - an eclectic, constantly changing mishmash
of diamonds, triangles and bars - is found in a courtyard
opposite the Galuppi Restaurant and is owned by a guy
called Bepe.
St. Martin's Church
Almost all the island's historic preserves are contained in
the ample sixteenth century church devoted to St. Martin.
The most important work of art in the church is the Crocifissione,
a 1727 painting by G.B.Tiepolo. The big square in front
of the church is dedicated to Baldassarre Galuppi (1706
to 1785), who was the famous musician know as "the
Buranello"(pride of Burano). Galuppi as librettist,
along with Goldoni, invented the opera comica
(comic opera) music theatre form.
Mazzorbo
Take time out to wander into the quietest corners and shady
parks, over the wooden bridge in neighbouring Mazzorbo
- a larger island with little more than a few houses, a couple
of trattorie, and open green space.
Lace making
While the men of Burano fish, the women uphold the island's
lace making traditions. Nowadays, real Burano lace
is a phenomenally expensive luxury and a dying art since it
takes three years for ten women to make a single tablecloth.
Choose carefully if you plan to buy lace on Burano as these
days much of the cheaper stuff is imported from China. You
can still occasionally see women working away at their lacy
creations in the shade of their homes and in the parks. The
Museo del Merletto explores the craft and history of
Burano lace.
Restaurant Da Romano
The Burano school of painting evolved before the First
World War. Its members combined a grainy surface and a strong
use of colour with a complete lack of respect for the academic
rules of painting. Many of their paintings hang in one of
Venice's more unusual art gallery, Restaurant Da Romano,
owned by the Barbaro family. This celebrated trattoria
first instigated the Burano art prize which was inaugurated
in 1947.
In 1910, the first painters landed on the island and became
fascinated by its magical atmosphere, including Gino Rossi,
Umberto Moggioli, Pio Semeghini, Arturo Martini, and
Luigi Scopnich. Very soon, the restaurant was filled with
paintings, which, still now, are as densely hung on the walls
as stamps on the pages of an album alongside superb contemporary
artists. Over the years, Burano's colorful scenery has attracted
many artists; presently the designer Philippe Starck
has several houses there.
Here you can also enjoy tasting Burano's local dishes, all
made with fish, particularly risotto with "nero
di seppia" (black cuttlefish), schie (shrimps
of the lagoon with polenta) or "sarde in saor"
- sardines marinated with onion and sultanas. This dish was
traditionally taken out to sea by fishermen as it would keep
for several days. |
