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Travel Warning:
Some parts of Central Asia can be unstable: check current
government advice before travel. Ongoing military operations
in the region mean Western tourists can be the target of terrorism.
Uzbekistan background
Uzbekistan lies to the north of Afghanistan, sharing borders
with Kazakhstan,
Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan,
and Turkmenistan.
Covered mainly by arid desert, the country experiences long,
hot continental summers and mild winters.
Russia conquered this remote region in the late nineteenth
century, setting up the Soviet Republic in 1924. Uzbekistan
gained its independence in 1991, and this is celebrated annually
every 1st September with fireworks, feasting, and plenty of
long-winded toasting, as is traditional with native Uzbeks.
The capital Tashkent serves as an international travel
hub, connecting many cities in Central Asia. With a majority
Sunni Muslim population, traditional Islamic majdrassas
and mosques feature in many of the towns and cities.
The traditional architecture in Uzbekistan is a big draw
for visitors. It incorporates spectacular Persian and
Mogul influences and is built with exotic and ornate
tiles. These artistic wonders can be attributed to the tyrannical
Timer the Lame (Tamerlane) who ruled the Central Asian
empires in the fourteenth century and spread fear and violence.
His legacy, however, was to erect some of the most beautiful
structures in the world.
Uzbekistan holds all the delights and mystery of the ancient
Silk Road, where you can lose yourself in an Arabian fantasy
in the many bazaars and teahouses. The shopping is second
to none: you can dig out some fantastic bargains of old silks,
porcelain, wooden furniture, jewellery, and carpets.
Uzbekistan locations
Khiva
The smallest of the oasis towns in Uzbekistan, Khiva sits
in the middle of the Kara Kum Desert. The city itself
grew up around a small well which is said to have been discovered
by Shem, son of Noah, and has since expanded into the
surrounding desert. You will find the old inner town, with
its mud streets and squares, perfectly preserved.
Khiva is a treat for those searching for some of the old
Silk Road mystery and charm, in its remoteness and preservation.
It is possible to tour the compact city on foot, and evening
strolls around the quiet streets are well recommended.
Starting your tour at the western gate, you approach Kalta
Minor, a colourful minaret, less than half complete. Next
door is the Muhammad Amin Khan Madrasa, once the largest
theological college in the city housing up to 250 students.
Today it stands as a hotel in a beautifully decorated courtyard.
Opposite sits the Kunya Ark, the old city's citadel,
the highlights of a tour here are the summer mosque and throne
room. You can climb to the rooftop to enjoy spectacular views
of the Ark and the old city. Further along the main east-west
street you'll find Jummi Mosque, the interior decorated
with carved wood columns. Tash Hauli Palace is slightly
further to the north-east. As you enter through the private
quarters, you'll find the harem ornately decorated with blue
glazed tiles and beautiful carved wood. This incredible space
should not be missed: ensure you take in the throne and music
rooms on your tour.
If your stay is limited, one sight you should definitely
see is the Islam Hodja Madrasa and Minaret and the
Pakhlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum. Its beautiful blue and white
interior should not be missed. Stroll along the streets behind
to access many more madrasah and walk along the ramparts of
the city walls towards the Ark.
For those who fancy a bit of bargaining, the Allah Kuli
Caravanserai and Tim house lots of shops and stalls. Just
outside the eastern wall of the city, you'll find vendors
displaying their wares throughout the streets of the main
market.
Two days is recommended for a stay in Khiva as the evenings
are great for soaking up the laidback atmosphere of one of
Central Asia's most beautiful cities. Flights are available
to nearby Urgench, about 25 miles to the north, and then transfer
to Khiva with one of the many drivers waiting at the airport.
Bukhara
Located in the south-west of Uzbekistan about 180 miles from
Samarkand, Bukhara has been dubbed the 'Star of the Muslim
World,' due to its status as the holiest city in Central Asia.
With 360 mosques and 80 masdrassahs, it is said the sun shines
upwards from Bukhara, whereas all other cities the sun shines
down on. Completely surrounded by the vast Kyzyl Kum Desert,
Bukhara manages to maintain its traditional atmosphere. In
its Silk Road prime, it developed renowned schools of art
and learning, famous throughout the Islamic world. You'll
find some of Central Asia's most intriguing landmarks and
architectural wonders in Bukhara's narrow winding streets
which reveal surprises at unexpected turns including The
Ark, a vast 100,000 square feet 'city within a city' palace,
the giant 150 feet tall Kalyan Minaret and its 10,000
capacity mosque with burnt brick design, and Lyab-i-Haus,
the town's sacred pool and social epicentre. Full
article about Bukhara
Tashkent
Uzbekistan's capital is the fourth largest city in the former
USSR. Transport connections here are excellent; you can catch
international flights to many destinations. The original town
was flattened by the 1966 earthquake and in place of the ancient
Uzbek architecture there now stands some rather drab Soviet-style
structures. The city itself retains probably more Soviet influence
than others in Central Asia, and as such has a large ethnic
Russian population. Here you'll find entertainment such as
theatres, bars, and restaurants. For something a bit more
authentic, head along to concert hall and catch a traditional
Uzbek show with dancing and music.
Tashkent has a few mosques, madrassas, and mausoleums, however,
it is a much better place to experience the contemporary side
to Uzbek life with its tree-lined boulevards, pretty parks,
and lively pedestrian areas. The metro aids getting around
this sprawling city, and a good start to your tour is the
square of Amir Timur Maydoni with its statue of Tamerlane.
Referred to locally as The Broadway, Sayilgoh Street
is a lively spot and the Navoi Opera and Ballet Theatre
are nearby.
Mustaqillik Maydoni (Independence Square) is a large,
empty space, often used for parades and rallies, where you
can find a large globe with Uzbekistan highlighted. Various
government buildings are located here including the president's
office. To the north of the square lies the Tomb of the
Unknown Soldier, the Turkestan Concert Hall, and
the Earthquake Memorial.
Take the metro to Bodomzor Station and you'll find
the UzExpo Center, an amusement and water park. Get
to the viewing platform in the TV tower for some good views
over this interesting city. There's a circus near to Chorsa
Metro Station in a domed building with fountains.
For an idea of what this ancient city was like before the
earthquake flattened most of it and the Russians rebuilt in
their own Soviet style, head to the old town to the west.
The daily Chorsa Bazaar still seethes with activity
as vendors fill the blue-domed hall, selling everything and
anything. The main religious buildings are close by including
the Barak Khan Madrassa and the Tellya Sheikh Mosque
on Khast Imam Square and the Kukeldash Madrassa
and Jummi Mosque to the east of the bazaar.
If you fancy a museum, the Fine Arts Museum houses
an interesting collection of artefacts, paintings, and suzani
(Persian needlework wall hangings). Others include the Museum
of Decorative and Applied Arts, the Timur Museum
and the History Museum of the People of Uzbekistan.
Outside of Tashkent
With Tashkent as your base, you can take trips to the Chatkal
Mountains in the north and east. The town of Chimgan
has some interesting activities and the nature reserve of
Ugam-Chatkal is possible to visit from here. Dzizhak
to the south has a nice hilltop restaurant and is the site
of Tamerlane's Gate.
Samarkand
The mythical and evocative oasis of the ancient Silk Road,
Samarkand draws visitors with its promise of magic and intrigue.
This town has plenty of Arabian lore to draw you into its
history and is famous as the home of Timur the Great.
His cruel legacy has left Samarkand with some of Central Asia's
most magnificent mosques and palaces.
The Registan and the ruins of the Bibi-Khanym Mosque
are particularly worth visiting. The Registan is the most
famous landmark in Central Asia and its courtyard is surrounded
by three madrassas covered in bright, geometric patterned
tiles. The Ulug Bek madrassa is the oldest surviving
college in Central Asia, completed in 1420 by the famous astronomer
Ulug Bek, who was also the grandson of Tamerlane.
The Bibi-Khanym Mosque, to the northeast of the Registan,
is reached by walking down the pedestrianised Tashkent
Kuchasi. It is the largest mosque in Central Asia, covering
an area larger than a football field. Despite the restoration
that is currently being undertaken, the building does not
fail to impress. Further on you can find Shah-i-Zinda,
a hill-side necropolis (ancient cemetery) hosting some of
the most beautiful and intricate artistic detail in Uzbekistan.
The mausoleums are covered in carved and glazed turquoise
and aquamarine tiles, laid in beautiful, geometric and floral
patterns. Outside you can sit and watch the world go by or
shop for fruits, vegetables and tea sets.
About fifteen minutes walk southwest of the Registan is the
Gur Emir, Tamerlane's mausoleum with a melon-shaped
dome in turquoise blue. Head down to the Culture and Art
Museum for good displays of decorative art, including
carpets and embroidered wall hangings called suzanis.
Outside the city, the village of Urghut, high in the
mountains, makes a nice excursion. It is the trading centre
of the prosperous agricultural region where you will find
a good market.
Shakhrisabz
Tamerlane's stupendous summer palace lies just south of Samarkand
in Shakhrisabz. You can take a taxi or bus two hours from
Samarkand and view what is left of Ak-Saray Palace,
and the Dorussiadat seat of government. The journey
to the town crosses some beautiful views across the mountains.
There is not much left of Ak-Saray, but you can see from the
remains the scale of this extravagant palace. The entrance
to the palace still stands: two towers that were originally
joined by an arch. Climb to the top of a tower for a good
view across the site and the nearby mountains. Other sites
worth visiting include the Dorut Tilovat Madrassa with
its blue-domed Kok Gumbaz Mosque, and the Dorus
Siadat Mausoleum, the resting place for several of Tamerlane's
sons.
Karakalpakstan
The area south of the Aral Sea is officially called
the Republic of Karakalpakstan. It is an autonomous
republic within Uzbekistan, inhabited by Karakalpaks, Uzbeks,
and Kazakhs with smaller minorities of Turkmen and Russians.
There is a valley and the Delta of Amu Darya in the
centre and Kyzylkum Desert occupies the east of the
region. The agricultural economy dominates, with crops including
alfalfa, rice, and corn. The Amu Darya's waters are channelled
down to the cotton plantations which provide the region with
much of its income through exports. The irrigation of the
land with water from the Aral Sea has led to a massive reduction
of the sea level. This has effectively reduced the republic's
fishing industry, changed the climate and reduced rainfall,
making the growing season increasingly short.
Andijan
Situated in the Syr Darya in Ferghana Valley,
this former trading centre on the old Silk Road is the main
city in this populous area of Uzbekistan. There's not much
to see in Andijan except the bazaar and the remains of the
fortress, but it's not worth a special trip. The Ferghana
Valley region is notoriously unstable so ensure you get up-to-date
travel advice before planning a trip here.
Ferghana
The town of Ferghana is a good base to explore the surrounding
Ferghana Valley and has a couple of decent hotels. This
imperial town has a distinctly Russian feel as it was founded
in 1877 as a Russian community. Stop here to see some interesting
nineteenth and twentieth century architecture.
Kokand
Set in the fertile region of the Ferghana Valley,
this city lies within the oases, blending the influences of
its Islamic, Chinese, and Russian neighbours. The premier
feature of Kokand is the impressive, lavish 113 bedroom palace
of Khudayar Khan, which has been restored to its former
glory. Other sites of interest include mosques and madrassas
from its history as an important spiritual centre. Chaikhanas
(teahouses) are also popular in Kokand, where you'll find
many robed Uzbek men watching the world go by and drinking
tea. As with the rest of the Ferghana Valley region, check
current travel advice before planning a trip here.
Maghilan
An older and more traditional town, Maghilan is home to Uzbekistan's
largest silk factory. Tours are available, and time should
be scheduled in to visit the bazaar. |
