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Where it's at
Vardzia, in the south of Georgia close to the Turkish border,
is a Medieval cave city, hewn into the side of the rocks of
Mt Erusheti above a river. It is located in a hanging
valley in the Lesser Caucasus Mountains.
History of Vardzia
Vardzia was built after 10,000 Turkish troops marched into
Georgia but were defeated by a bold Georgian army of just
2,000 men. There are only 750 rooms left now after an earthquake
but in its heyday it housed 50,000 people. The rooms include
monk cells, a grand foyer, a treasury, cathedral, libraries,
stables, bakeries, and bathing pools. Each dwelling consisted
of three rooms, although it is said that Queen Tamar,
Georgia's first female sovereign, who completed the city after
her uncle's death, had 366 rooms so that if Vardzia were to
be invaded by the Persians she would be able to lose the enemy
in her quarters.
This cave monastery was built during the "Golden Age"
of feudal Georgia. Built between 1184 and 1186, it is a unique
example of cave architecture. It is thought to have been of
great cultural significance, having been built during the
time of Rustaveli. At this time, Georgian art, science,
and literature flourished.
Originally built as a military base by Giorgi III,
it was Queen Tamar who was responsible for the change in function
to a more religious site. The legend has it that when the
workmen finished where they had started removing the rock,
at the end of each day their tools would mysteriously have
been moved to another location. After this happened a number
of times it was considered to be divine intervention and the
new location became the chosen place. It therefore had religious
significance form the start. It is also thought that the city's
name derived from something Queen Tamar said. Tamar got lost
in the caves when she was young and out riding with her uncle
Giorgi. He called 'where are you?' she replied, 'ak var dzia,'
meaning 'here I am'.
Visiting Vardzia Today
There are still a few monks living in Vardzia who act as
guides but they do not speak English, they will merely prevent
you from getting lost. An entrance fee of six lari ($3.50)
is payable but the monks also expect a tip. Also be warned
that there is sill a debacle going on between the church and
the government. The monks and the church do not consider women
welcome at Vardzia, which seems strange as it was the first
female tsarina, loved by her people, who founded the city
and lived there for many years.
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