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Bastakia Quarter
This district, on the waterfront east of the Dubai Souq,
is distinguished by its cluster of traditional wind-tower
houses built at the turn of the twentieth century. They were
the homes of wealthy Persian merchants attracted to Dubai
by its laid-back trade tariffs. They constructed their houses
with wind-towers that kept the houses cool in the burning
heat of the summer by catching breezes and channelling them
down into the rooms below.
Top Sights Outside the City
Sharjah
The third largest emirate of the UAE, Sharjah is an easy
six miles up the coast from Dubai. The most important port
on the Arabian side of the lower Gulf until it was eclipsed
by Dubai in the latter half of the twentieth century; it now
markets itself as the cultural capital of the UAE. The city
is an urban sprawl of offices and apartment blocks but its
centre is worth visiting for its heritage area. This includes
the attractive Al-Hisn Fort, several museums and art
galleries and the great Al-Arsah Souq, a charming market
with a palm frond roof and carved doors that give it a traditional
feel. It's a good place to pick up Arabic and Bedouin gifts.
Hatta
Hatta is an enclave of Dubai hidden away in the Hajar
Mountains and a favourite spot for weekending expats.
From here you can access the magnificent rock pools over the
border in Oman; this is a small canyon full of water year
round and just the place to share a cool dip with the toads
among the rocks and waterfalls.
Kalba
For immersion in a lifestyle that's long gone on most of
the Gulf coast, head to the traditional fishing village of
Kalba in the Sharjah Emirate. Here fishermen
go about the daily business of pulling in their nets morning
and evening and shasha boats, canoe-like fishing boats made
from the perennially useful palm frond, line the beach. South
of the town, Khor is the site of the oldest mangrove
forest in Arabia.
Al Ain
The fascinating oasis city of Al Ain is situated in the
Buraimi Oasis. The city lives cheek by jowl with the neighbouring
city of Buraimi, part of Oman and the contrast between
the two places represents the chasm of fortunes that separate
the two nations. One moment you're in Arabia's adventure in
wonderland, where even the traffic islands are themed, next
you're in Oman's dusty streets. There are several forts to
visit as well as engaging souqs selling livestock and camels.
A drive up to the top of Jebel Hafit is a must for
spectacular views across the town and beyond.
Where to Stay
Accommodation doesn't come cheap in Dubai. There seems to
be a huge gulf between the top end and the bottom end, with
very little in between. There are many small hotels in and
around the Deira souk area - look for those that advertising
themselves as family hotels or you could find yourself staying
in a brothel! Single women travellers may wish to look elsewhere,
since this area is associated with women of the night!
Budget (around U$75 per room per night)
The Al Khaleej Hotel
Nasr Square
Deira
Dubai
Tel: 04 22 111 44
Fax: 04 22 371 40
Right in the centre of the action, don't confuse the Al Khaleej
Hotel with the more expensive Al Khaleej Palace hotel. The
staff are friendly and helpful, the rooms are spacious and
Duke's bar on the 9th floor serves food until late. Don't
be put off by the signs for the 'dancing girls' club, also
on the 9th floor!
Top end (around U$900 per suite per night)
Al Maha Desert Resort
PO Box 7631
Dubai
Tel: 04 832 9900
Fax: 04 832 9211
www.al-maha.com
Al Maha is the stuff that dreams are made of. Set in a conservation
area of 250 square kilometres alive with gazelle and Arabian
Oryx, each of the suites has been styled on a traditional
Bedouin tent and has its own pool looking out to the desert.
The Al Maha is around 45 minutes drive from the centre of
Dubai but it's the perfect place to relax. Outstanding service
(there are three staff to each suite), food to die for, private
falconry displays, desert excursions and just about anything
else you could want. It's little wonder Al Maha is a member
of the Small Leading Hotels of the World.
Culture
The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding
The SMCCU offers tours to the Jumeirah Mosque twice a week.
This is the first 'tour' of its kind in the UAE - all other
mosques are closed to non-Muslims. Wait at the entrance to
the mosque at 10am sharp on Thursdays or Sundays and you'll
be met by a guide from the Centre. Visitors must be appropriately
dressed and women must cover their hair. The visits are free
and are informative and informal, ending with a Q&A session
in which visitors are encouraged to ask questions about Islam
and Dubai itself. The Centre is open from 9-2pm, Saturday
to Wednesday.
Tel: 04 353 6666.
Email SMCCU
Food and drink
In a city comprised of over 100 different nationalities, you
can find cuisine of every variety. From local shawarma cafés
that serve tasty kebabs of lamb or chicken mixed with salad
& rolled in a piece of Arabic bread for just DHS3 (U$0.80),
to the finest of sushi restaurants - Dubai has it all. It
is worth noting that there is no street food in Dubai, so
anywhere you eat in the city can be assumed to be safe. If
you like wine with your meal (or any alcohol for that matter)
then you must go to the restaurants inside one of the many
big hotels in the city as no independent restaurants serve
alcohol. Luckily the hotels are home to some of the best restaurants
in the UAE. They're expensive by Dubai standards but if you're
coming from a major city like London or New York, it will
seem good value by comparison.
Recommended hotel restaurants:
Iranian
Shebestan, Hotel Inter Continental
Deira
Tel : 04 205 7333.
Average of DHS150 (U$40) per person excl. alcohol.
The finest Iranian cuisine in the city: soups, salads, fish,
kebabs, stews and deserts. The service is excellent and the
view over the Creek is lovely.
Fusion
Eau Zone
The Royal Mirage Hotel, Jumeirah Beach
Tel: 04 399 9999. Prices as above.
The cuisine here is described as 'modern with an Asian twist'
and it's absolutely fantastic. If you eat here it's bound
to be one of the highlights of your stay in Dubai.
Arabic
Awafi
JW Marriott, Deira
Tel: 04 262 4444. Average of DHS100 (U$25) per person, excl.
alcohol.
Arabic-style cushions around a warmly lit pool, excellent
food and sheesha pipes make Awafi a wonderfully relaxing experience.
Food and etiquette during Ramadan
No matter how cosmopolitan Dubai is, it takes the Islamic
Holy Month very seriously. This means it is difficult to get
food and drink between sunrise and sunset. The only places
serving consumables are the large hotels until sunset. There
is a very special atmosphere during Ramadan. Once the cannon
fires to signal official 'sundown', everyone swarms to the
cafes and restaurants to break their fast. It feels very festive
and people will sit around eating, drinking and smoking sheesha
until the early hours of the morning. Ramadan runs for one
month of the winter, depending on the Islamic calendar. Although
November has far more bearable temperatures than summer, it
is still very hot (35°C), but, no matter how thirsty you
get, it is not acceptable to drink in the streets. Any drinking
should be done very discreetly, completely out of sight of
anyone who may be fasting. At the same time, chances are that
if you find yourself in the company of Muslims they'll insist
that you drink in front of them - it is however respectful
to avoid doing so until you are invited to. The same goes
for smoking! |
