|
Known locally as Bam-i-Dunya, or 'The Roof Of The
World', the Pamirs range has certainly earned its reputation.
These slopes are home to hardy creatures that can cope with
the extreme cold and high altitude such as Marco Polo sheep
and the elusive snow leopard.
Staying with the Pamiris
The human settlers who survive these conditions are the Pamiris,
including the Ismailis, a section of Shia Islam who
are led by their spiritual leader, Aga Khan, a Swiss-born
businessman and horse breeder whose provision keeps the Pamiris
in food. The government has mostly ignored these people due
to them backing the losing side during the civil war. However,
regardless of their desperate situation, they are nonetheless
hospitable and you will no doubt be offered floor space, a
pungent sheepskin blanket, and a hot bowl of tea (sher chay).
There are no shops or places to buy provisions so ensure you
bring plenty to share with your host.
Base camp
Khorog, the capital of the autonomous region of Gorno-Badahkshan,
is a good starting point for a trek. The town lies 6,500 feet
above sea level, sprawling along the uneven banks of the gushing
Gunt River. Take a plane from Dunshanbe, but
be prepared for the ride of your life, as the plane swoops
between mountains so close you can almost feel the wing tips
brushing the snow!
Activities
The facilities here are constantly improving, with a growing
number of tours organising hiking and trekking holidays in
the mountains. There are tours for a range of abilities, but
it is advised that you seek guidance before planning a trip
as entry formalities and equipment need to be arranged in
advance.
Horse riding is also an increasingly popular activity
amongst tourists as you get to experience the gorgeous scenery
the traditional way. A key feature of the nomadic lifestyles,
saddling up and trekking the mountains on horseback gives
the opportunity to uniquely experience this region and maybe
join in a local game.
Travellers tips
The Pamir Mountains are notoriously dangerous with trigger-happy
men prowling certain areas. Check locally as to where is safe
to walk; your best bet is the Fan Mountains at the
western end of the Alay Range. You can book through
an agency or hire a local guide but remember to bring your
own equipment. You should plan to visit between June and September
as bad weather makes many of the routes impassable at other
times of the year.
Pamir Highway drive
For spectacular views and a mind-numbing experience, this
two-day route from Khorog to Osh on the M41
Pamir Highway is certain to deliver. This badly surfaced
road, with its relentless hairpin bends, will give you a white-knuckle
experience of these awesome mountains and the fantastic Tajik
scenery. With much of the road dissolved by landslides and
avalanches, it is quite a challenge, but worth every heart-stopping
minute. Highlights are crossing the 15,272 feet Ak-Baital
Pass and the drive across the Pamir Plateau. There
is no accommodation so be prepared. |
