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Travel Warning:
Some parts of Central Asia can be unstable: check current
government advice before travel. Ongoing military operations
in the region mean Western tourists can be the target of terrorism.
About Turkmenistan
Turkmenistan boasts pristine natural surroundings with outstanding
culture and arts which, combined with its hospitable and friendly
people, makes it an unforgettable alternative destination.
The most recent to attain its independence from the Soviet
regime, the native Turkomen are steadily regaining their heritage
and the country is beginning to open its doors to the wider
world.
Still relatively untouched by tourism, the independent traveller
can expect to journey into a colourful, vibrant country with
a rich culture and welcoming people. Largely covered by the
vast Kara Kum (literally 'Black Sands') Desert,
one of the world's largest deserts, this natural defence historically
proved successful in keeping conquering armies and zealous
explorers at bay. The Amu-Darya is one of the very
few water resources in this dry and arid region. Leopards,
porcupines, gazelles, gophers and the sand crocodile manage
to live in the oppressive desert, along with a variety of
highly poison snakes.
The country borders the Caspian Sea, Iran, Kazakhstan,
Afghanistan, and Uzbekistan. As with much of this
region, political and social unrest is common. The second
largest of the ex-Soviet republics, it is sparsely populated
due to the expansive and vast desert. Widespread poverty and
the reduction of cotton exports since independence means much
of this gracious population live sparsely.
Turkmenistan history
Throughout history, this unlikely land was passed between
empires as armies blundered through on their way to conquer
richer lands. Alexander the Great established a city
here between the Amu-Darya and the Caspian Sea, followed by
the Romans, and the Seljuq Turks. Genghis
Khan then ripped through the region on his way to
Europe, tearing up the Seljuq Empire as he went.
The Russians secured the region for their Tsar in
1894 after the Goek-Tepe massacre which saw 15,000
uncontrollable Turkmen slaughtered. The Turkmen Soviet
Socialist Republic was formed in 1924, but the attempts
by the Russians to control the nomadic Turkmen were met with
ferocious resistance. When the state tried to ban religion,
settle tribes, and collectivise farming, the Turkmen waged
a guerrilla war until 1936 when over a million of them fled
into the desert and northern Afghanistan. A flock of Russians
moved in their place and set about modernising the SSR. Industrialisation
saw mass irrigation of the land to water the cotton plantations,
a major export of the time. This environmental meddling led
to much of the Amu Darya and Aral Sea drying
up.
Saparmurad Niyazov's Democratic Party is hardly a
change from the previous communist ruling. With opposition
parties banned and statues of Niyazov gracing every corner
of the country, the new 'democratic' government has more than
a passing resemblance to the old communism. He even renamed
himself Turkmenbashi ('Head of all Turkmen.') Rampant
corruption and fading popularity with the president led to
an assassination attempt on Niyazov which he barely survived.
Turkmenistan locations
Ashgabat
The capital of Turkmenistan could be mistaken for the end
of the world; rebuilt after the devastating 1948 earthquake,
it holds none of the charm evoked by its literal name, 'City
of Love.' The one highlight visitors should not miss, however,
is the huge Sunday bazaar on the desert outskirts of the sprawling
city. Tolkuchka Market sells everything from dishcloths
to camels. Why not bargain for one of Turkmenistan's traditional
carpets, or if you'd rather just admire, the Carpet Museum
holds the world's largest hand woven rug.
Other sites the archaeologist in you may find interesting
are the remains of the ancient cities of Nisa and Anau.
These are located just outside Ashgabat, along with Firuza,
a popular mountain escape around 20 miles southwest of the
city. Firuza provides a pleasant reprieve from the heat of
the barren deserts. Nestled in a gorge, it provides a chance
for the traveller to experience the otherwise inaccessible
Kopet Dag Mountains. Descend 200 feet underground to the
lower slopes and you reach the 'Father of Lakes' -
a hot-water mineral spring where you can take a dive. Unfortunately
the unpleasant smell of rotten eggs as you surface may spoil
this otherwise relaxing dip.
Konye-Urgench
A cluster of interesting sights makes this ancient, if fairly
humdrum, city worth a visit. Old Urgench was, for a short
period in the thirteenth century, the head of the ancient
state of Khorezm which encompassed the Amu-Darya
Delta area in the north of the country. At this time,
the city was at the heart of Islam but Genghis
Khan and his Mongol army attacked after its ruler
antagonized the brutal warrior. The city had just about recovered
its former glory when Timur the Great had a shot at
it and flattened it a second time in the late fourteenth century.
After this second onslaught, the city never fully recovered,
however, a handful of ancient buildings still make this a
draw for the independent traveller. Start your tour around
Najm-ed-din Kubra Mausoleum, the Torebeg Khanym
Mausoleum, and the highest minaret in Central Asia, Kutlug
Temir. To get here, it's possible to take a train from
Ashghabat to Dashkhovuz and a bus for the final 60 miles.
Merv
This archaeological paradise was once one of Central Asia's
greatest cities. For the modern day visitor, however, it somewhat
lacks the allure of its Silk Road days. The remains of five
separate walled cities lie amongst the barren landscape, dotted
with grazing camels. One mausoleum worth visiting is Sultan
Sanjar, impressive in its size and solidity. Reach Merv
by car from Mary or train from Ashghabat.
Gaurdak
In the extreme east of the country, the mountainous area
of Gaurdak is starkly beautiful. Interesting gorges, waterfalls,
and caves mark this land between the Amu Darya and Uzbekistan.
The Kugitang Reserve, a geological research centre,
is the place to spot hundreds of dinosaur footprints, left
in the sand from the Jurassic period 150 million years ago.
Located in a plateau believed to have been a lagoon bed which
dried out, leaving these fantastic prints.
Repetek Desert Reserve
This reserve is home to a wealth of wildlife including tarantulas,
cobras, scorpions, and thousands of species of creepy-crawlies.
With temperatures scorching at over 50C and 70C on the sand,
this museum, herbarium and visitor centre allows you opportunity
to learn more about these fascinating environments and the
creatures that inhabit it. Tour operators in Charjou
can arrange visits.
Turkmenbashi
For a slightly more relaxing break, this sleepy Mediterranean-style
town is a good stopover for a couple days. It has a port and
is surrounded by a crescent of mountains overlooking the Caspian
Sea. The moon-like beach is mainly composed of desert
and dust. Treks are possible into the surrounding mountains
for great views over the town.
Kopet Dag Mountains
Trekking in Turkmenistan is best done in the Kopet Dag Mountains,
but it's limited around the sensitive border with Iran. It
is advisable to hire a guide through a recommended agency
to ensure your route is as safe as possible. You will need
to bring your own equipment and it's best to trek in the summer
months between June and September. Bad weather is common and
unpredictable so check with local forecasts before setting
out. Agencies can arrange horse and camel treks. |
