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Climate
This region has an extremely varied climate - from hot seashores
to alpine mountains. You can do some nice skiing in Lebanon,
and then travel to the Syrian or Jordanian desert for a camel
ride. Lebanon has the famous Cedars of Lebanon in the mountains
as well the Jeita as a cavern about 15 miles north
of Beirut. There are a few beaches for swimming in Lebanon
and you can float around in the Dead Sea near Jordan,
but if you want a full-on "beach holiday" you may
be slightly disappointed. Winter is roughly Nov-March, and
Summer is June-Sept. The best time to visit is arguably spring,
early summer and fall when the daytime temperatures are moderate.
Sandstorms in the desert can be dangerous - it's best to venture
out with a guide for this type of trekking as you can get
hopelessly lost quickly with dire results.
Visas
All nationalities require a visa and a passport more than
six months from the expiration date. If you have evidence
of prior travel to Israel, you may be refused entry to these
countries. There is a Syrian, Lebanese and Jordanian Embassy
in the US, UK and Europe (Netherlands). Check with your local
embassy for specific information relating to your country.
Cash
Lebanon - the local unit of currency is the Lebanese
Pound, but is also called Lira
Approximate values:
$1 US = 1,500 LBP
£1 sterling = 2,500 LBP
1 Euro + 1,600 LBP
Jordan - the unit of currency is called the Dinar
$1 US = .70 JOD
£1 sterling = 1.2 JOD
1 Euro = .75 JOD
Syria - the unit of currency is the Syrian Pound,
but is also called Syrian Lira
$1 US = 50 SYP
£1 sterling = 80 SYP
1 Euro = 55 SYP
Exchange rates vary wildly from month to month, so make an
up to the minute currency
conversion.
Syria
ATMs have only recently (March 2001) made an appearance in
Syria and remain somewhat rare. It is difficult to get Syrian
money outside of Syria - though larger currency specialists
such as Thomas Cook, may be able to get Syrian pounds if you
give them enough notice. The airports in Aleppo and
Damascus have exchange facilities that can get you
cashed up right off the plane. ATMs are extremely common in
Lebanon, slightly less common in Jordan. In any of these three
countries you can exchange currency at banks, though be aware
of the Arab's somewhat inexplicable schedule of business hours.
Syria is a shoestring traveller's dream. You can find hotels
around the al Hedjazz train station for around US$6.
These are close to a lot of good things to walk to, including
Souk al Hamydiyya cafes and tea houses, but may vary
greatly in terms of cleanliness and amenities - or state of
disrepair - bring your own universal sink/tub plug! Street
food is extremely cheap, plentiful and quite delicious and
fresh. Shawarma and felafel goes for about US 50 cents per
sandwich. Shopping is a dream - most things are priced less
than half of what you'd find at home - for almost the same
quality. You can break the bank for a US $150-200 a night
stay at the Meridian,or the very swanky Sheraton, but Syria
can be travelled quite nicely on a more modest budget. A budget
traveller could be quite happy having tea in the lobby of
the Sheraton, to make believe you're staying there, and watching
the well-heeled Saudi businessmen swoop around in their robes
and keffiyahs.
Lebanon
A budget for Lebanon should be created more in the context
of a "big city" holiday. The prices there can be
typically "American" or "British" depending
on the level of luxury you require. There are also more Western
goods and services available in Lebanon, if this type of thing
tempts you. The shopping is off the charts, especially women's
clothing. You can find everything from cheap and trendy clubwear
to gorgeous couture worthy of any international socialite.
There are many more ethnic restaurants serving food that deviates
from the Arabic norm found in Syria and Jordan.
Jordan offers more expensiv "adventure travel"
type pursuits. There are a lot of companies offering package
tour for camel treks, Bedouin guides and rock climbing or
hiking. Also new in Jordan are some nice resorts and spas
around the Dead Sea area. Expect to pay premium tourist rates
here.
Food
Arabic food is one of the most interesting things about Arab
culture - and the hospitality of the Arab people is legendary
around the world. While the same basic components, meat, rice,
vegetables are constant, the spices and serving methods make
it distinct to whatever region you're visiting.
Be sure to sample the local alcoholic beverage, if you're
a fan of such vices, the anise flavoured - Arak. Typically
Arak is served in glass, into which water is poured turning
the clear Arak cloudy white, and then ice. Always the water
first, THEN the ice. For those who may not wish to be intoxicated
by this Arabic rocket fuel, the other national drink, tea,
has many varieties. The most common is black tea, drunk
in tiny glasses, with lots of sugar. There is also mint
tea, green tea, and hibiscus tea - a romantic tea
made from flower petals.
Language
Arabic is the official language of the region, but
you find a surprising amount of English speakers. People will
delight in "practising their English" with you and
will apologise needlessly for what is often an excellent command
of the language. There are areas where nothing but Arabic
is spoken, including road signs, so it's a good idea to have
at least an idea of the language - knowing the Arabic equivalents
of "please, thank you, excuse me and I'm sorry"
are well appreciated. If want to learn a few words, stop in
any tea shop -you won't want for an Arabic tutor for long!
In Lebanon, and in Syria to a lesser degree, French
is spoken. It's considered extremely polite to speak French
in Beiruit, a sign of good manners. The Arabic spoken is the
Levantine dialect, different from that spoken in Egypt or
Moroco. Lebanese Arabic has a laid back quality to
it - the Californians of the region - whereas Jordanian has
a rhythmic, almost "sing-songy" sound to it.
People
Arabs are some of the most physically beautiful people around,
due to the mixing of ethnicity's in the region. The men are
handsome with strong features, the women are graceful and
exotic. The nationality is Arab, but you find many
people identifying with a secondary ethnic group - Palestinians,
Kurds, Armenians, Circassians or Chechens. The
colouring of the people ranges from extremely light, even
blond haired/blue eyed in Lebanon and Syria, to very dark
skinned with black hair. The famous "Arab hospitality"
is no myth - people think nothing of inviting total strangers
to their house for tea or food. The crime rates in these countries
are low - due to the totalitarian governments.
Culture
Lebanon has a lively arts and cultural scene - Beirut especially
is packed with nightclubs, art galleries, and concert venues.
Syria and Jordan have many of the same activities, but on
a smaller scale. The High Institute of Music and Ballet
in Damascus often features concerts by the Syrian National
Symphony Orchestra - a national treasure.
Dress
In this region, you will see Western dress as well as traditional
robes and head coverings for men and women. Even in summer,
dress modestly - especially women. Both sexes cover their
arms and nobody wears shorts on the street. If you sport the
usual American combination of shorts and white sneakers you
will stick out like a sore thumb. Men in the cities usually
wear long sleeved shirts with jackets or more traditional
robes and keffieyahs - the traditional red/white or black/white
head coverings.
You do see the "headscarf and long coat" ensemble
of Muslim women everywhere, but many women in the cities dress
VERY Western with gorgeous, stylish outfits and very high
heels - especially in Lebanon. This does not mean skimpy clothing,
which is almost universally frowned on - and can create problems
for women. When in doubt, keep the arms and legs covered and
err on the side of modesty. Long skirts are great for women
travellers, with the bonus of making it easier to use any
squat toilets you may encounter! Women in rural areas will
be more traditionally dressed, possibly wrapped up in a chador,
or large head scarf. It's advisable for women to wear a head
scarf in some areas, or at the very least - have one on hand
especially when visiting mosques. This will show more respect
of their culture. Another benefit of the head scarf is it
may allow you to glide through the souks, markets, with less
of the tourist hustle that others may encounter.
Travel
Cabs, cabs, cabs. You can take a cab from Damascus
and get to either Amman or Beiruit. There are
also a few tour bus lines - these are getting better as the
area develops more of a tourism industry. Private cars are
a tough call - driving in Damascus is utter anarchy, one hand
on the wheel, one on the horn. Renting a car tends
to be quite expensive in Syria and Lebanon, best to check
out the cab option first!
Trains are not really an option in Syria, Lebanon
and Jordan. the al Hedjaz train station in Damascus,
while historically significant, is basically empty - except
for an interesting coffee shop near the train platform (which
features one of the few bars serving alcoholic beverages)
made up of old train cars once used by Sultans. Everything
in the train station is slightly shabby and decaying, though
the area around the station is lively. If you absolutely must,
you can hop a once-weekly train to Aleppo, Homs, Hama,
Tartous or Latakia - for a VERY cheap price - but
you may be in for a 12 hour ride. Best to inquire at the train
station for the current schedule.
Also near Hedjaz Station are the Damascus' offices of EgyptAir,
and a few more smaller airlines are scattered around the Martyr's
Square area. Also in this section is the bookshop area - there
are quite a few English language and travel books available
for sale here.
When planning travel in and around or out of the city, remember
that Syrians and Jordanians work Saturday - Thursday - the
Islamic holy day, roughly equivalent to the Western Sunday
is on Friday - while Lebanese are more Western, and have Saturday
and Sunday off - to shop! Most shops will be closed on Friday
in Syria and Jordan. However, hours at most stores can be
maddeningly irregular and confusing - they sometimes slam
shut without notice, for prayer times, meal times or just
a break - but some do stay open surprisingly late in the evening.
Cabs, however, are always your constant travel option. They
are available seemingly any time.
Health
Vaccinations suggested for this area include tetanus, typhoid,
hepatitis A and a polio booster. Hospital facilities
in these counties tend to be quite modern and there are many
small pharmacies with knowledgeable staff for less serious
travellers complaints. Be sure you health insurance covers
you for travel in these countries, if you encounter a serious
health problem, it can be quite expensive.
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