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Guadalajara
Guadelajara is seen as a slower and more conservative place
than Mexico City, though some say it is the 'most Mexican'
of Mexican cities. There are a series of plazas downtown,
unchanged since Spanish colonial times, with a distinct provincial
elegance and old-world atmosphere. Outside of the unruffled
nucleus are the smart hotels, modern office blocks and shopping
malls of the suburbs.
Baja California
Tijuana
This is the barrier that keeps Mexicans out of North America
and where people risk their lives to get into the States.
For North Americans, Tijuana has always had a reputation for
being a wild border town. Nowadays, though, you are more likely
to find a hamburger than you are a to find a gunfight. Having
said that, it is still a haven for criminals on the run, leachy
businessmen, gamblers and schoolboys looking for a good time.
Over twenty million people come into Tijuana every year,
but hardly any stay the night; this is No Man's Land. The
border patrol is where all the helicopters come in and at
the borderline it is not really Mexico or the United States,
until you get over the fence. Army people sometimes have to
come to the border and try to stop the Mexicans from going
across. When this happens the army people are pretty rough
on the Mexicans.
San Quintin
Baja's highway is literally littered with small towns like
San Quintin, where locals drift in from the countryside, buy
groceries, get repairs done or have a beer. Apart from that
time passes very slowly. In San Quintin is a hotel called
Cielito Lindon. Built for 50's Hollywood stars, the
place is now fading as we move further into the 21st century.
San Ignacio
San Ignacio, colonized by the Spanish, is now a local centre
for the ranching community, known here as rancheros. It's
also an oasis, a life-saving source of water in the past and
a good place to cool off today
Mulege
Mulege is a small town on the coast which is popular with
tourists. Mulege is another oasis town where the Spanish built
a mission. These days, Mulege is quiet and peaceful, but a
lot of Baja towns still have a hangover from the rough and
tough frontier times when the peninsular was a haven for mercenaries,
revolutionaries, prohibition busters and gangsters, or anyone
on the run from the law.
Batopilas
A single rough track leads to the town of Batopilas, at the
end of the missionary trail. It became rich in the 18th century,
when silver was discovered in the nearby mountains. Because
of its isolation, Batopilas quickly got a reputation as a
hard town with tough men and strong women.
Batopilas is a cowboy town. There are no bars and no discos,
so every once in a while, the people here get together, and
this is when it gets dangerous. This is a butch and macho
place, and the girls from town belong to the boys from town.
Southern Mexico
Patzcuaro
Perched high above a lake, five hour's drive from Mexico City,
is the traditional Indian village of Patzcuaro. Nothing much
happens here, except once a year this sleepy little town wakes
up to a very special visitor.
She's got the most unforgettable face, and out here she goes
by many different names. They call her the fancy one, they
call her the skinny lady. They call her the baldy bone face,
Mexicans chase after her, they lust after her, they mock her
and they even sleep with her. Also she's the favourite plaything
and the most everlasting love. La Muerte: death. Dia de
los Muertos (Day of the Dead), is a ceremony that occurs
at midnight every November 1st in Patzcuaro, and is well worth
experiencing.
Guanajuato
Guanajuato is the old Spanish heartland of Mexico - a vast
dry and rugged landscape. Home to Mexico's only true national
sport, 'Chuarro', Guanajuato was the cradle of the revolution
against Spain. It was also the source of silver and gold for
the Spanish, with which they created the most splendid cities
in Mexico.
Guanajuato used to be the wealthiest town in the whole of
Mexico; the Spanish built some of their most striking buildings
here. Today there are no signs, no traffic lights, new buildings
are not allowed and it looks just like a Spanish town from
the 18th century. There is also an incredible maze of underground
tunnels.
Architecturally, Guanajuato feels like a Spanish city, though
in terms of its visual beauty it almost surpasses anything
you would see in Spain. Here, though, you have the additional
component of colour. Whilst in Spain the buildings tend to
be more greyish, the colour here is amazing and you feel that
you really are in Mexico when you come to Guanajuato.
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