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Where it's at
Every year, holidaymakers, fun-seekers, and a throng of history
nuts descend upon a former World War Two airport to re-enact
the events of a French Trading Post called Grand
Portage that flourished by the Mississippi River
in the seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries. This three
day event, which takes places once a year during the first
week end of August, is organised by the irrepressible Charles
Ogee and his wife Marie-Jean Ogee. The festival
has been going for eighteen years and participants keep on
returning year after year. You rendezvous is the White
Oak Rendezvous, Deer River, Minnesota.
History of Grand Portage settlers
An explorer called Jean Nicolet claimed Lake Michigan
for France in 1634 but the first true French settlers were
called 'Les Couriers du Bois' - 'runners in the woods'.
They served Louis XIV and raided the Great Lakes for
gold and minerals. Disappointed by their results, they were
succeeded by the Voyageurs - hired paddlers who established
a fur trade with native Ojibwe and Sioux tribes,
swapping cloth, beads, and guns in return for prized buffalo,
deer, and beaver pelts.
The Voyageurs were experienced river men, at home living
in the wilderness and accepting of the risks and fortitude
required for this hardy life. They were physically very fit
and paddled for up to eighteen hours a day. They would carry
two to three 90-pound packs up hills and across marshy bogs
to their stations, sleeping on the ground and relying on a
diet of pemmican - pounded meat and berries rubbed
with fat. The dried meat and fat would keep the food from
rotting for months and provided them with a high energy source
of nourishment. Owing to their stocky size and hearty appetite,
the Voyageurs were commonly known as 'Pork Eaters.'
What happens at the Grand Portage re-enactment?
For a few days every August, the reconstructed trading post
is brought to life by dozens of re-enactors wearing period
costumes and each playing a character they have researched.
Most of the re-enactors have perfected some period skills:
black powder rifle, tomahawk throwing, survival skills,
cooking skills, or hand crafts. The scenes re-enacted are
very subtle - not battles or speeches but everyday events
on a trading post where native Americans and Europeans came
together to trade their goods. An interesting event is the
silent trading, silent because people didn't speak
each other's language, so trading was carried out using gesture
and mime.
Within the boundary of the trading post you'll find many
stalls selling food and drinks and demonstrations of various
crafts, like quill writing or beaver skinning,
which you are invited to participate in. You can even buy
Voyageurs clothing. Anybody can come and pitch a tent - the
organizers will help you find the right old-fashioned camping
equipment.
In the evening you can drink beer at the Trading Post Tavern
and try broom dancing to Celtic music.
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