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The Vanuatan island of Tanna is home to the John Frum
Cargo Cult; one of the worlds most intriguing religions.
When Presbyterian missionaries came to the Pacific Islands
in the late 19th and early 20th century they brought with
them western ideals and material goods which began to erode
the Vanuatu traditional or kastom (custom) way
of life.
Around the late 1930s sightings of John Frum
spread throughout the island - a spirit messiah who had come
to change the people back to their traditional ways before
corruption from the British missionaries. Exactly who John
Frum is, is ambiguous according to the islanders; he is thought
to be the son of God who may take the form of a black Melanesian,
a white man or even a black American G.I if you believe
their stories. They believe he lives in the crater of the
Yasur volcano with an army of 20,000 men. The theory goes
that if white people were dispelled from the island, their
cargo of western goods would be diverted - with
the help of ancestral spirits - to the people of Tanna.
Towards the end of the period of missionary control during
the second world war, an influx of American soldiers, ships
and cargo arriving in the area. Approximately 1,000 men were
recruited from Tanna to work on the American army base at
the neighbouring island of Efate. Not only did the
Tannese experience better treatment than they were used to
under the British administration, but they saw black American
soldiers who also had the same possessions, clothes, and food
as the white people.
The Tannese began to reject western ways; they stopped going
to church, killed their cattle, and burned their money in
the belief that everything they needed would be provided by
John Frum. Some began to build landing strips and warehouses
in anticipation while others built imitation radio masts out
of bamboo in the belief that if it worked for the white men,
it would work for them. At first those perceived to be ring
leaders were imprisoned without trial, but these men soon
became martyrs and their imprisonment served to strengthen
the growing religion. So punishment was replaced by education
as westerners tried to explain that cargo came not from magic
but hard work and technology.
The movement continued to flourish and on February 15th 1957
an American flag was raised in Sulphur Bay to declare the
religion of John Frum and it is on this date every year that
John Frum day is celebrated. During the festivities,
the elders march in an imitation army; a kind of military
drill mixed with traditional dance. Some carry imitation rifles
made of bamboo and wear American army memorabilia such as
caps or T-shirts.
Today the movement is still a thriving religion in some parts
of the island; celebrated every Friday with drinking and dancing.
For others, it has become something of an embarrassment. Either
way, it cannot be denied that this is a unbelievable and enduring
movement.
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