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Exotic Papua New Guinea offers a breathtaking variety of colorful and unusual experiences. Its tropical rainforests and coral beaches are un-spoilt and the people are friendly. Its five million inhabitants are spread out across the country with often vast distances between most villages and towns, which are separated by huge mountain ranges and deep valleys. The capital city and central airport is in Port Moresby where international flights arrive from Singapore and Australia.

People

Papua New Guinea is made up of many tribes and the culture is based strongly on the extended family. Families work together in the villages and safeguard each others wellbeing. Land is at the centre of the people's values as it provides their livelihood: Papua New Guineans are known as some of the greatest gardeners in the world. The tribes can be divided into two main groups: Coastal and Highland. There are immediate and obvious physical differences to those in the know. There are some spectacular tribal decorations like the Asaro Mudmen and the Huli Wigmen.

Travel

This is a vast mountainous country with virtually no roads so the only way to get around is by plane. There are airports and strips all over the country and although it is the best way to travel it is neither cheap nor reliable. Timetables are not trustworthy, merely a guide, so arrive early and be patient. The main airline, Airniugini, flies to all the big airfields throughout the country and islands, while smaller independent airlines and missionaries can be persuaded to take an extra passenger sometimes - for a price!

Buses travel on the Highlands Highway and in the towns but are often overloaded and badly maintained. Taxis are available at Port Moresby Airport but make sure you negotiate a price first, or pick up a hotel bus and go to one of the expensive hotels for the night. Never travel or go out at night in any towns or on the Highlands Highway as this is when you are most likely to get robbed.

Language

English is the language of government and law but there are over 800 very different local languages. The 'get about' language is Pidgin English, developed from the various colonial languages used. Try simple greetings like Mawnin (morning) and Avinuun (good afternoon) and your efforts will be appreciated.

Cash

The money, called Kina and Toea, is derived from the pre-colonial era when shells were the currency used. Kina is the largest denomination and 1 Kina is equivalent to around 33 cents.For up to date currency information, check the Currency Converter. Travelers' checks can be changed at most banks and hotels; Visa and Mastercard are acceptable in big hotels. Most small businesses, taxis, and shops only allow cash. Beware of pickpockets and carry cash carefully in two or three different pockets or bags and do not flash your cash around. The most expensive hotels will be 400 Kina ($130) a night and the guest houses around 120 Kina ($40) a night. Better places are springing up all the time for the budget traveler.

Food

Fruit and vegetables are widely available, cheap and excellent. Most street markets have banana, pineapple and pawpaw fruits and common vegetables are sweet potato and taro. Do not eat cooked street food, especially meat. Traditionally food is steamed in a hole into which red hot stones have been placed. The food is wrapped in banana leaves, covered with leaves and soil and left to cook. This is quite a vegetarian friendly country where many vegetables are cooked in coconut milk. Protein meat is expensive and outside ex-pat hangouts rare, although pig is used on special occasions such as weddings and funerals.

People also sell betelnut (buai), a narcotic nut, which can be found for sale everywhere. Having taken it from its green skin it's chewed; as it becomes pulpy a special plant (dagga) is dipped in slaked lime (often made from pounded coral) and the whole lot is chewed together. It produces huge amounts of saliva that is brilliant red and has to be spat out. The effects are drug-like stimulation: your head spins, you feel lethargic and start to sweat. It's an acquired habit that can cause throat cancer but good to try once!

Health

The usual tropical diseases are found in Papua New Guinea and vaccinations should be taken as per travel advice. Only drink clean water and if uncertain then boil it. Wrap up carefully and use mosquito repellent at night on the coasts and in hot swampy regions like the Sepik.
Tropical sores can spring up fast so keep cuts clean and covered. A.I.D.S. and H.I.V. is becoming common. You will get propositioned on a regular basis, especially men, so be sure to reject every approach. In cities most common medication can be bought over the counter.

Dress

The cities are free and easy in their dress and thinking. Western dress is most acceptable for men but a woman should dress conservatively and should not be provocative in her clothing or behavior. The traditional dress is a laplap ( wrap around skirt) and meri blouse (voluminous top) for women.

When to go

Avoid the rainy season, although this varies throughout the country, usually taking place from December to March, with the dry season proper running from May to October, the shoulder months being quite humid. In Lae and Alotau the dry and rainy season are in reverse of this. September and October are the best time to catch the traditional 'sing-sings'. These are held in the Highland Shows, mainly in Goroka and Mount Hagen. The Highlanders bilas (decorate) themselves and dance and sing. They are very wild and disorganized events that are very colorful and exciting. They also offer the chance to buy interesting artifacts and mementos.

Visas

Visas are needed to enter Papua New Guinea but these can be bought on entry for 100 Kina ($30 US), payable in the local currency. Return tickets are required to be shown on entry.