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Where it's at
Though some travellers would be put off by visiting Rio's
poorer neighbourhoods, the latest tours in Rio pay a visit
to the suburbs slum favelas, and introduce you to the social
structure and hierarchy in these areas. The visits offer an
insight into how one third of Rio's inhabitants live, and
serve as a contrast to experiences of visiting the ritzier
neighbourhoods of touristic Rio.
Favelas ring the city's wealthier neighbourhoods, with some
wedged in between luxury housing estates and others climbing
the hillsides at steep angles. Most of the favelas are not
in sight of downtown Rio and are actually concentrated in
the Zona Norte, over the hills and behind the outstretched
arms of the iconic Jesus statue.
Favela residents
Favelas are mainly populated by Brazillians from the poorer
North-eastern states of Bahia and Recife, coming
in search of better jobs and a better life in the big city.
Running water and electricity are intermittent here, though
the favelas are not as decrepit as you may imagine; many families
live in spacious homes that resemble some of the more upmarket
areas of the city. The biggest difference between the favelas
and the wealthier neighbourhoods is that police protection
is almost nonexistent in the favelas, in fact, most favelas
operate under the watchful eye of the drug dealers and crime
gangs that use the young residents of the favelas as drug
sellers and couriers. The lawlessness of these areas is legendary
and periodic gun battles still erupt between rival gangs.
The favela tour experience
To safely visit a favela, join a tour through your hotel or
from one of the many companies that now offer them. You will
be met at your hotel in Copacabana and then start walking
towards the dark green hills behind the hotels office blocks
and department stores. Suddenly you will take a shortcut down
a narrow alley that leads upwards, stepping on concrete blocks
that serve as steps to the unpaved dirt pathways and roads
that snake through the favelas. Houses and apartment blocks
are crammed in side by side, some of which have more amazing
views of the ocean than the wealthier apartments below, but
the lack of social services and police protection make life
here precarious and often dangerous.
The film City of God is a good depiction of the lawless,
violent and tragic consequences that occur when children in
the favelas try to get involved with the drug trade to get
a better life. For several hours a walk through the vibrant
neighbourhoods will be a highlight of a visit to Rio, because
the small cafes and restaurants here serve some of the most
delicious food in the city, along with some of the most friendly
Cariocas you will meet. Learn some Portugese and the experience
will be even better.
Safety advice
If intending to visit a favela, it is unwise to go alone,
as they can be dangerous and unpredictable; it's never safe
to go early in the morning or late at night. It's a smart
idea not to bring expensive cameras and other valuables with
you either; it's better to be safe than sorry. Though running
into problems is extremely rare, it's still a risk that should
not be taken.
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