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At last Ian reaches Potosi, one of
the richest cities in South America due to the discovery
of silver in the 16th century, by a llama herder called
Diego Huallpa. Ian plans to go underground and experience
the mines for himself, but first he stops at the miners
market to purchase gifts for the miners: cigarettes,
alcohol, coca leaves and a few sticks of dynamite! Miners
start their career at the age of 8 or 10. They are self-employed
and gifts from visitors supplement their meagre incomes.
During colonial times millions of African and Indian
slaves died due to the harsh conditions in the mines.
From Potosi Ian makes his way to Uyuni.
Just outside the town is the largest salt flat in the
world and Ian hooks up with a tour group to check out
the immense salt lake which covers more than 4500 square
miles. That night he stays at the Palacio del
Sal - a hotel incredibly sculpted entirely
from salt.
Ian gets a ride to Uncia, where the
fiesta of San Miguel is taking place.
Allegedly the patron saint of Uncia fought off devils
who were trying to attack the town using only his fiery
breath. Thirty-six different groups perform a traditional
dance and the participants' costumes become more and
more extravagant as the day wears on.
Next morning Ian follows a tip that a Tinku
fight is taking place in a nearby village.
Twice a year entire villages turn out to take part in
a strange tradition where every family member pits their
strength against the opposition. The blood that is inevitably
spilt during the proceedings is considered a sacrifice
to Mother Earth, but when things get too rough the referees
intervene with their whips.
After returning to La Paz by bus, Ian joins a group
cycling to Coroico in the lush
Yungas region. It's a 38 mile ride with a 2
mile drop in altitude, and is very narrow with a sheer
drop below. Thankfully Ian negotiates it without incident
and arrives in Coroico and basks in the fertile sub-tropical
climate which is far more hospitable than the highlands.
Ian ends his incredible journey by trekking to Huayna
Potosi, one of the spectacular Andean peaks
that overlook the city of La Paz. |