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The Caribbean produces some of the best coffee
in the world, a fact often buried by the fame of Brazilian
and Columbian coffee brands. Its weather conditions are perfect
for growing the brown bean: low-acidic, well-drained soil
with warm temperatures and adequate rainfall. Because of the
lower altitudes of the islands than where it's grown in Central
and South America the coffee beans have a much sweeter taste.
Coffee in Puerto Rico
Puerto Rico became home to coffee plantations in
the early 18th century when the Spanish conquistadors turned
the western Highlands of Puerto Rico into haciendas. Even
within the Caribbean however, Puerto Rico is less famed for
this product than, say, Jamaica with its Blue Mountains
growing area. That's not to say it's not top quality;
US president Franklin Roosevelt used to call it 'Grand' and
made it a mainstay of the White House breakfast.
The little commercial town of Maricao is
a romantically mythical place nestled between two mountain
ranges on the edge of the Highlands. Every year it hosts a
coffee harvest festival in February that's well worth a visit.
The tradition dates back to the eighteenth century when local
hacienda owners hosted feasts for their workers to celebrate
the end of the harvest. In the intervening two centuries the
fortunes of Puerto Rican coffee fluctuated: its reputation
peaked in Europe at the turn of the twentieth century with
demand following suit, however by the late 1960s trade had
fallen drastically. A handful of co-operatives persevered
and trade has taken off again due to the sheer quality of
the coffee here. Because of this, Maricao's harvest has become
even more of a reason to celebrate.
What happens at the
coffee festival?
Over three days the town's main plaza is choc-a-bloc with
food and drinks stalls while traditional dances, parades and
musicians (including some of the island's most celebrated
talent) entertain revellers. Of course, the main attraction
is the bean - and it' s in full odour here. Cups run over
with free coffee and there are plenty of coffee roasting demonstrations
for the uninitiated.
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