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Wine has been cultivated in the Rheingau
and the Mosel for over 2000 years. This is
the home of German wines including their finest and most sought
after of their white wine - the Riesling.
German wine may not be highly rated by the wine drinkers of
the rest of the world or even Germans themselves, but increasingly,
wine critics internationally are singing the praises of some
exceptional Germanic vintages.
A Sweet Tooth
By contrast with the traditional French wines, Germans like
to make their wines less alcoholic and slightly sweeter, although
very dry wines are also developed. Some of their white wines
are superb and expensive. Riesling is a hot
favourite, second only to Chardonnay in white wine consumption
in America and has been described as the "Ferrari of
white wines". It was introduced in the areas of Southern
Germany because of its greater resistance to frost.
Late in the 19th century, top German Rieslings were the world's
most highly prized wines, consistently fetching higher prices
than Bordeaux's first growth and this was Germany's Golden
Era of wine. By the 20th century German wine status fell from
primacy to plonk. Its worst period was during the second world
war when much of the vineyards were destroyed or abandoned.
Post War Germany began to harvest wines in mass production,
adding to the nation's economic boom. By the 1980's, even
wealthy Germans prefered the tastes of imported French and
Italian dry wines. It was only the unrefined Brits who championed
the cause of the Liebfraumilch as a cheap
but versatile table wine. During the 1990's, their reputation
improved thanks to few small private states.
German wines may not be able to compete with their French
neighbours in terms of refinement and variety, but sweet pudding
wines and sweet white wines which they produce rank as some
of the greatest in the world, like the priceless Trockenbeerenauslesen.
As fashion has turned against sweet wine, Germany's wine genius
has become somewhat misunderstood, but increasingly more people
are realising that although sugar can cover up a bland wine,
great fine wines can also be sweet.
Where to Taste
Bacharach lays in the heart of the wine
cultivation area of the Middle Rhine. For the last three generations,
the Ratzenberger family has been producing
high quality wines. Another one of their specialities is Sekt,
the German version of champagne (sparking wine) which follows
the true traditional method, producing a small-bubbled, creamy
Riesling Sekt. In 2001, the Ratzenberger
Sekt was selected as best sekt of the year.
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