Around 500 kilometres off the coast of West Africa lie the little known Cape Verde islands. This cluster of volcanic islands, first colonised by Europeans in 1462, and developed as a key port of call in the slave trade between Europe, Africa and the newly-discovered Americas, has a harsh, but spectacularly beautiful landscape.
Host Zoe Palmer starts her journey on the island of Fogo, dominated by its mighty and active volcano, which last erupted in 1995. Guided by genial islander José Antonio, Zoe makes the steep and tough climb up the slippery scree to the summit at nearly 3,000 metres. She is rewarded with breathtaking views stretching across the Cape Verde islands and the Atlantic Ocean beyond.
The next day, Zoe flies on to the island of Santiago, home to Cape Verde's capital, Praia. From there she heads to the nearby old town of Ribeira Grande, Cape Verde's founding city. 16th century ruins tell of the inhumanity of slavery, but the sheer scale of the slave trade here is only revealed offshore. Offshore from Santiago, she goes wreck-diving and explores a collection of barnacle-encrusted anchors belonging to old sailing ships, many of them slavers, which centuries ago crowded the now tranquil harbour.
Flying on to the island of Sao Vicente, Zoe arrives in the island's main town - Mindelo - in time for Carnival, Cape Verde's biggest celebration of the year. The streets are alive with music and dancing, with party-goers dressed in spectacularly colourful costumes. A good singer, drummer, and samba dancer herself, Zoe immerses herself in the fun.
Finally, Zoe catches a ferry from Mindelo to Santo Antao island, which has dramatic mountainous terrain ideal for hiking and mountain biking. Heading for the coast on the far side of the island to the ferry port, Zoe mountain bikes across a vertiginous landscape, with astonishing views at every twist and turn.
Staying with a local family overnight, Zoe sees oxen being used to grind the local sugar cane into an alcoholic drink known as grogue - it's extremely strong, as she finds out when she samples it... Back on her bike the next morning, Zoe braves the narrow road down to the coast, with sheer 150 metre drops on either side, before finally reaching the coast.
It's been a fantastic journey through the the amazing islands of Cape Verde and an adventurous traveller's dream destination. |