South East USA: Destinations
Virginia
Virginians are descendants of the settlers who came from as far away as England, Ireland, and Germany to the unexplored parts of the South East USA in search of land, opportunity, and a better life. The English adventurer Sir Walter Raleigh made the first serious attempt to colonize this untouched area in 1585, naming it Virginia after Queen Elizabeth I, the Virgin Queen. From the seventeenth century onwards, pioneers from all over Europe – many of them farmers – driven from their own countries by political, economic, and religious reasons – were irresistibly drawn to the lush plains of the Shenandoah Valley to start a tradition of living from the land and a pastoral way of life that still exists in Virginia today.
Schuyler
To some, the Appalachians will forever be synonymous with the dentally-challenged banjo playing psycho hillbillies of Deliverance, but for others there’s only one family that epitomises Blue Ridge Mountain life. Schuyler is the hometown of Earl Hamner Jr, creator of the world’s nicest family – The Waltons – whose exploits he based on his own experience of growing up in small town Virginia. He was also the creator of numerous other pastoral film and TV greats including Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, Heidi, and Gentle Ben. In Schuyler you’ll find Walton’s Mountain Museum where you can see Ike Godsey’s store, the Walton’s living room and kitchen, and John Boy’s bedroom complete with typewriter.
Damascus
A good stop off point on the epic Appalachian Trail is Damascus. Nestled in the Blue Ridge Mountains and traversed by various different trails, it’s known as the friendliest town on the Trail where thru-hikers (those attempting to complete the full 2,175-miles) have been resting and refuelling for over 50 years. It’s an outdoor-loving town where hiking boots, bikes, and tents plus a plethora of outdoor outfitters rule. Those without cars can arrive at this haven on the Virginia Creeper Trail – a 34-mile mountain bike trail running from Abingdon to Damascus which has been described as the best mountain bike trail in the east of America. Damascus is also surrounded by a wealth of natural beauty, like streams, rivers, wooded areas, and the peaks of Mount Rogers and Whitetop – the two highest mountains in Virginia. The Appalachian Trail even runs right through the main street of town, with bricks and telephone poles marked with classic white blazes. The place to head to is The Place. This is where thru-hikers come to swap hero and horror stories and trade advice but the best thing is you can stay here for just a donation of $4 a night. The Place is run by the United Methodist Church.
The Natural Bridge
Not far from what the original settlers in Virginia called The Frontier – the Blue Ridge Mountains – is one of the most spectacular sights of the Shenandoah Valley. The frontier settlers thought it could only have been created by the hand of God and Native Americans worshipped it. Nowadays, it just supports a portion of Route 11, but the Natural Bridge is still magnificent. Its 215 feet high and 90 feet long arch has been eroded out of limestone over the centuries by the seemingly benign Cedar Creek. Sadly, this beautiful natural structure has been incorporated into a slightly macabre complex called the Natural Bridge and Conference Centre. It will set you back $8 US to enter for a slice of kitsch Americana, complete with tacky souvenir shops, but you get to see the bridge at night.
South Carolina
Charleston
Nicknamed the ‘Little London of the New World’, Charleston reigned as the most wealthy and cosmopolitan city of the South for 200 years until the loss of the Civil War reduced it to a quaint colonial town. Natural disasters also had a go – including the 1886 earthquake and Hurricane Hugo in 1989 – but in a testament to the spirit of the city, most of the original buildings are still standing and tourism is now the money-maker with over four million tourists visiting Charleston every year. The grandest ‘Gone with the Wind’-style antebellum mansions which epitomise Charleston are all along the South Battery. Just strolling down here you can really imagine the gracious living of Charlestonian merchants in the glory days, and see the added color of Rainbow Row – a row of multi-coloured houses.
Don’t miss the Edmonton Alston House which has fantastic views across the harbour and the ultimate Charlestonian porch accessory – the joggling board. Usually made form local palmetto trees, this was used by children and couples in love. The male and female adults would sit at opposite ends of the board and ‘joggle’ up and down. Bit by bit the couple would bounce towards each other until…well you can guess the rest!
Visit Old Slave Mart where slaves used to be bought and sold. Approximately three-quarters of slaves brought to America travelled through Charleston. Keep an eye out for vendors selling benne wafers – a cookie made of sesame seeds. Benne is an African word for sesame and eating sesame seeds is thought to bring good luck.
Unless you know you’re way around, it’s pretty hard to find many of Charleston’s bed and breakfasts as entrances are discreetly located inside antebellum homes or walled gardens, but if you desire historic decadence, head to The Governors House Inn. Located in the heart of the historic district, just a short walk from the Battery, it used to be owned by Edward Rutledge, the youngest signer of the Declaration of Independenceand Governor of South Carolina. You will be swept away by its crystal chandeliers and four-poster beds respite with marble bath. This luxury doesn’t come cheap at from $229 a night, but you do get a complimentary afternoon tea thrown in and where better to have your mint julep than on the piazza, catching the south side breeze and feeling like a true Southern Belle.
Georgia
Savannah
In Savannah, explore an aspect of black culture in the South that harks back to the South’s roots in slavery when slaves didn’t have the money to build their own churches. That’s no longer the case today but, as always, Savannah likes to mix tradition with modernity and at Tybee Island those seeking relaxation are lured by the restaurants, hotels and pier attractions whilst those seeking redemption won’t be disappointed either. At the beach here you can witness sea baptism, dating back to Biblical times, where people are totally immersed in water to immerge a new person.
The city is also famous for its Cotillion, or debutante ball, where young ladies are formally presented to society at the age of eighteen. This tradition harks back to seventeenth century England when fathers seeking cash infusions would present their daughters to society in the hope of finding wealthy suitors. You better book in advance: eager Daddy will need to book their cherub into the Cotillion at birth.
Schools in the city offer junior Cotillion classes where wannabe debutantes are taught etiquette, formal manners, character education, ethics, and the answers to those difficult dilemmas like when should a lady rise from the table during dinner. Of course they must learn to dance – awkward teens try to waltz around elegant ballrooms, replete with a huge crystal chandelier and string quartet. It is traditional that the first dance at the Cotillion is with a girl’s father or uncle.
Destination – Sourh East USA
