Libya Destination Guide
Tripoli
Libya’s capital city of Tripoli, known as ‘the white bride of the Mediterranean’ is the main centre for commerce and culture. With elegant Italian and Turkish influenced colonial buildings, mosques and a funky authentic medina where you can shop without the typical Middle Eastern hustlers, this is one of the most European influenced cities in North Africa. Dating back from the 5th century BC, it’s rich in history although few relics have survived the many purges. Top sights include the 1920’s Gazelle Fountain, the People’s Palace and the Roman period Citadel with its labyrinthian courtyards. The medina in the ancient quarter contains 38 stunning mosques like the marble laden Gurgi Mosque with its tall minaret and many domes. Located on the western Coast, there are limited beaches nearby, although they’re not that clean or impressive.
Tripolitania
The Tripolitania region covers the north-west of the country where fruit, olive and date palms characterise this land rich in produce. Past Jebel Nafusa is the desert, and here lies Sabratha and Leptis Magna, two fine Roman cities.
The 1st century ruined town of Sabratha, 40 miles from Tripoli, is a must see sight, often compared to Petra in Jordan. With an impressive theatre containing 108 Corinthian columns and set against the backdrop of the sea and beaches, it’s rich in history and makes a great day trip from the city.
East of Tripoli are several tourist friendly seaside villages like Tajura, and Khoms, the stop off for Leptis Magna – one of the largest and most well preserved Roman ruins in the world. The city fell into disuse by the 10th Century AD and was covered by sand dunes which protected and preserved it. Excavated in the 1920’s the site covers 2 square miles. The area dates back to between 700 and 600 BC and contains marble from Italy and Greece, and stones from Kashmir, Bengal as well as local limestone.
Much of the present day site dates from the town peak in popularity in the 2nd Century when the main trades were slavery, gold, ivory and metal goods. Leptis was mined for marble and columns to build statues, mosques and palaces throughout the world. The site features an impressive display of well preserved monuments, bath houses and a swimming pool built by the Emperor Hadrian measuring an impressive 100ft long. The circus just outside of the main site was one of the largest in the Roman world and the only one of its kind in Libya. Described as a “Megalomaniacs dream”, the area has been partly flooded but can be discovered by underwater explorations.
Zliten is the oasis town famed for its marabout tombs (turba) and a site for pilgrims, but you’ll need a local guide to be able to find them. The ornate Sidi Abdusalam Mosque of stucco ceilings is a great piece of Islamic architecture here.
Jebel Nafusa & Ghadhames
This western mountain range by the Tunisia border is the home of the Berber culture and many examples of their troglodyte architecture can be seen, mainly used as grain stores or goat houses nowadays. Attractive hill towns like Gharyan, Nalut and Yefren offer fantastic views across the Jefara Plain. The oasis town of Ghadhames, the ‘Pearl of the Desert’ offers a traditional view of desert life, where many of its citizen are descendants of slaves.
Cyrenaica
The east of Libya is similar to Egypt in landscape and character. Its Green Mountains (Jebel Aghdar) makes a refreshing contrast to the abrasive desert. It’s full of antique Greek cities (Crete is nearby) and is great for diving.
Benghazi is Libya’s second city sitting on the Gulf of Sirt. It’s mainly a modern post WWII development, but provides a pleasant base for swimming and exploring the Green Mountains. Good places to visit include Sultan, close to a Fatimid site. The Green Mountains are, as the name suggests, green, luscious and full of rustic charm. The Greek port town of Tocra and Tolmeita with its fantastic desert beaches, are worth a visit if you’re passing by.
Cyrene is a well preserved Greek city modelled on Delphi. It offers stunning views of the sea and much richnesses are yet to be excavated. Partially uncovered gems include an ancient Gymnasium, a war ship and numerous carved tombs. The adjacent ancient city of Apollonia sits on the coast as a port and can be visited alongside Cyrene.
The town of Derna has a waterfall flowing year round (a rarity in Libya) and Tobruk’s WWII history is evident in its British and German war cemeteries.
Fezzan & the South-East
Fezzan epitomises the beauty of the Sahara Desert and its uninhabited wilderness. Here you can feel you are the first living creature to experience the world. Prehistoric rock art and stunning rock formations abound. You’ll need a 4WD vehicle and guide or be part of a Camel Caravan, which doesn’t make visiting the back of beyond so cheap. The only major town is Sebha, once home of Colonel Gaddafi and his old school can be visited here. The Wadi al-Hayat region (known as the Valley of Death) is an agricultural area which was once the home of the Garamantes tribe whose history can still be explored here.
Ramlat Dawarda is one of the driest places on earth, but in the middle of the region is a series of 13 lakes appearing like a mirage. The lakes are fed by underground water which is leeched slowly through the sand. Colonel Gaddafi is pumping the water from the lakes a thousand miles North to the coast to give the people of the capital Tripoli fresh water. It’s one of the biggest engineering feats ever. These lakes are extraordinary, like the Mavo Lake which changes colour chameleon-like from red to blue or green.
Around the village of Germa are the ruins of Garamaand Zinchera, with history dating back to Neolithic times.
The greatest wilderness is to be found in Tibesti, south of Sehba. You need a permit to visit this area. The town of Murzuk is synonymous with death and danger as many early explorer were killed here, however, nowadays it is safer and the rare event of a visitor is more likely to be met with curiosity than impailment. Kufra is the largest town in the area, but little geared to visitors.
Acacus
The Acacus mountains near Ghat contain some of the most extraordinary scenery in the world. The area is a maze of canyon and rocks, and you need an experience Tuareg guide. Only 10,000 year ago the area was a luscious watery terrain of lakes and reservoirs and contains some of the earliest remains of human society. Acacus is one of the most remote spots on earth, it’s a lost prehistoric world containing a plethora of ancient cave art, amidst unbearable heat. The region is known as the Valley of the Shadows.
Never enter the mountain alone, it is easy to get lost and the cave paintings are held under government protection and travelling alone is forbidden. This area is less visited than the South Pole and the land is a total wilderness of endless rugged mountainous terrains. With no roads, you need a vehicle to get around. Take water supplies as well’s with clean water do exists but are few in number.
Destination – Libya