DOMINICA: The Nature Island

Pilot Guides

Waitukubuli (the Kalinago name for Dominica, which means ‘tall’ or ‘old is her body’) was one of the last Caribbean islands to be colonised.

Named after the day of the week he first spotted her, Christopher Columbus – when asked to describe the island – crumpled up a piece of paper and tossed it on the table. “That”, he said, “is Dominica”. Governed from England until being granted independence as a Commonwealth republic in 1978.

Called the ‘Nature Island’, this once British territory is sandwiched between Martinique and Guadeloupe/Marie-Galante which are all French islands.

The Imperial parrot is Dominica’s national bird. It mainly an eco destination as it doesn’t have good beaches but does claim some of the best diving in the area. Offering great mountain treks, lush tropical rainforest , more than 300 waterfalls and lagoons ,and the excellent diving , it is also home to the Caribbean’s largest Carib Indian community.

Places to See and Things to Do:

Diving:

Most of the best dive sites are in the Soufriere Bay area. Scotts Head is a coral ledge populated with stingrays, snappers, barracudas and parrotfish. Snorkelling can be found at the Soufriere Pinnacle which rises 160 ft from floor of the bay to within 5 ft of the surface and has lots of coral and fish. Also Champagne is a sub-aquatic hot spring off Pointe Guignard, where crystal bubbles rise from underwater vents, a natural form of thermal energy.Le Tete Chien is a stairway like lava outcrop that seems to climb out of the ocean.

Whale Watching:

The season runs from October through to March . You are most likely to see sperm whales . The largest of the toothed whales can grow to 70 ft in length Sperm, pilot and humpback whales can be found year-round .Take whale watching boat tour.

Hiking:

Morne Trois Pitons National Park –There is an all day trek (6 miles) through a steaming volcanic valley known as the Valley of Desolation)Pass the Trafalgar Falls, consisting of two waterfalls Mama (the smaller one) and Papa the larger one plunging down a 60 meter rock face. Mama’s is a cold fresh water basin and Papa’s a hot sulphur bath. This is en route to the 207ft (60 yard) wide Boiling Lake nestled in a volcanic crater and is the second biggest in the world (the biggest is in New Zealand). This is a 6 ½ mile climb and it’s not easy.

Shorter excursions include a hike to Middleton Falls or a visit to the Emerald Pool at the bottom of 40 ft waterfall – or the 200 ft Trafalgar Falls with a sulphur pool at the bottom.

Mountain Biking

Explore the sulphur springs and old estate trails. If you are taking an eco stroll through the tropical mountainous, interior then travel up to the Titou Gorge, where you can swim in an ice cold pool.

Carib Territory:

There is a town called “Massacre” which commemorates the massacre of Carib Indians by British troops in 1674 – there is a mural along the main road depicting this.

A 3700 acre reserve which begins around Bataka and continues south for 7 ½ miles is home to Dominica’s 3,000 Carib Indians. You can buy Carib woven baskets, visit the church in Salybia which has a sharply pitched roof, and is decorated with colourful paintings depicting Carib life and an altar made from a dugout canoe. You can also make Carib baskets with the islands Caribs and stay in their traditional homes on stilts.

Inscribed on the wall outside the Carib Territory office of the Chief Executive is ‘500 years of Colombus Lie!! Yet we survive.’ The Carib language is long gone and many ancient customs – canoe building and basket weaving are being modernised. Carib Indians have intermarried with Westerners.

Rouseau:

In the capital visit the old market where slave auctions took place and the colonial fortress

What to Eat and Drink:

There are ramshackle rum shops and various small bars. The Macoucherie Rum Distillery is based just north of Mero. They use old fashioned methods to crush sugar cane to make the rum and, although they don’t run tours as such, it is no problem to stop by and watch the process from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday to Friday.

Dominica’s national dish is Mountain Chicken – which is in fact the legs of a giant frog called the crapaud, which is caught between autumn and February.

Destination: Dominica